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Author Topic: Jive ass anchors!!  (Read 192 times)

old_school

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Jive ass anchors!!
« on: July 28, 2014, 10:04:57 PM »

A must visit!!!  ;D

http://jive-assanchors.com/
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Admin Al

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2014, 12:14:53 AM »

cool...
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markvnh

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2014, 08:51:00 AM »

...been to this site at times and it is a riot the way anchors are described at times.
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strandman

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2014, 09:34:39 AM »

Very nice..with some work, the first anchor would remind me of some places on Cannon.

I am familiar with the carrot bolt..."there good mate, came from a cars and already have been tested"
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pappy

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2014, 09:39:42 AM »

uh, what's wrong with those?  8)

and this guy has never heard of keyhole hangers, which have a long proud  ::) history over here, too? Worth noting that I understand the Aussies also have a history of using RPs (they invented them after all) as 'bomber' fixed gear at Arapiles. They're my heroes, proud practioners of the idea that it's all good, if you don't fall.
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strandman

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2014, 09:55:04 AM »

Whitesides anyone ????   i still have fond memories of looking for anchors there.
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pappy

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2014, 10:31:43 AM »

Whitesides anyone ????   i still have fond memories of looking for anchors there.

 ;D anchors are optional. you've probably heard this one, but others here probably not, from Rotert's underground guide, describing 'Bungle in the Jungle' on Raven Rock: p1. climb face to moss ledge, 140'. 5.8, no pro. Assume firm stance for a belay. FA would not object to putting in a drilled anchor.' which is okay as far as that goes, but then: 'p2 diagonal up weakness to obvious ledge 120', 5.7+, no pro.' ya gotta love those potential 100'+ factor 2 falls onto a firm stance.
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lucky luke

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2014, 11:26:47 AM »

A must visit!!!  ;D

I don't like those site.

People take more time to laught about other mistake than to learn to do it corectly. I imagine some time that I have to bail with anchor less than safe and don't have the choice to stay in life. Between thes two option I will bail to stay in life. if you look carefully at the anchor and use the good place, there is a chance that one of the protection, natural or not, hold some thing. Better than just the two bolt...

If you take fifteen minutes to look at jive ass site or an hour to read that junk, why don't you take a book like climbing anchor of john long, to learn the good method to rig an anchor. The people memorize what they see and if you read junk, there is a good chance than when you climb and you need to be safe, you will do the same junk...with a dramatic finish some times.

never forget that some anchor are there for years and was used by hundred of people. it is not because one said that it look weird that the anchor is not good.   
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strandman

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2014, 11:51:56 AM »

LL- some of those anchors are easy to fix and make better. NO ONE always raps off a perfect anchor all the time.

pappy, was it Original route on Whitesides ? 5.10 AO XX  ..nice climb..small rack
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perswig

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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.
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