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Author Topic: Jive ass anchors!!  (Read 531 times)

Bill

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #15 on: August 05, 2014, 10:12:16 PM »

Here are some guys who really know how to set an anchor ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsAiOYXC-k0

Go to 1:24 for the good stuff.
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Flotsam

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #16 on: August 05, 2014, 10:20:47 PM »


That is ridiculous.  Unless there is a rock quality issue not apparent in the picture,  anchor bolts should not be so far apart. In good rock spacing them the distance between  your spread pinky and thumb is fine. Giant lengths of chain should only be used if you absolutely have to place the bolts somewhere to get good quality rock which would then make the rope run over a sharp edge. I had to use long chains over the roof on Man overboard at Rumney, but I hate the way they look. Out at a place like Rainbow I think you particularly want to keep the anchors low impact visually.

People, please stop using stud bolts too. They kind of suck, for a bunch of reasons. If you are going to use those pre-made ring anchors, the double ring ones are much better than the single ring per hanger. I just got some on sale from Fixe at $5.50 a piece (unfortunately back up to $14 now, but keep checking for sales) http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/fixe-ss-1/2-double-ring-anchor/
1/2" SS Rawls on sale for $4.90 right now http://www.fixehardware.com/shop/bolts/powers-ss-1/2-x-2-3/4-5-piece-bolt-r5930/ Grab them while you can! They are what I mostly use in granite or other really hard rock.  Use a fairly fresh bit so the hole is not too tight and clean it well with brush and blowbulb.

those two bolts/rings have been there for many years.  All that other stuff was "added" since I was there last.
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strandman

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #17 on: August 06, 2014, 10:28:56 AM »

Stud bolts get used because they are so much less $$$ Especially in SS..i have seen many a botch job over torqueing 5 piece bolts, even 1/2 ones.
Even with the anchors that far apart, it's better than the chain/sling deal. The other pic is still my prefered placement of anchors..off set high/low, but without nylon of course.
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M_Sprague

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #18 on: August 06, 2014, 10:56:53 AM »

Why the off-set, John? It seems to just make it more of a pain to even up the anchors. I see that style a lot on old set-ups that need to be upgraded, that and bolts two feet apart, which just increases the force on them unless lengthened with huge chains or runners.
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strandman

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Re: Jive ass anchors!!
« Reply #19 on: August 06, 2014, 11:13:05 AM »

My long time climbing partner, the late Karl mallmen was a physics guy and said that any lateral, swing loads really stressed the anchors from the sides.  The offset reduces this a lot.

I would guess that the effect is somewhat less with bigger bolts but....

I have used the Fixe "trad" anchor with this set up and really like it, though it does have a bit more visual impact.
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