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three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad

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lucky luke:
I went to Yosemite and I climbed with boulder climbers. I thought that they are not good trad climber and found three reasons not to boulder before learning trad. I know that I will have stupid answer on that post and I hope that you will answer the question who follow: What can you say to have a better understanding of the idea below? 

a- the rope is very important in trad. not because it is safe, but because it is a link between you and your partner. When you  begin to climb, you are apprehensive about the fall and you learn to trust your partner. As in boulder there is no rope, the importance of the second, of a good belayer, is not so intense. A crash bad is better than a belayer. I was looking at an old, as old as me, trad climber and saw how much he take care of the rope. how he communicate with his second, moving with him in the hard part and congratulation him, in the exact good time. In trad, the climber are more partner and both people most go to the summit. In boulder, the situation is more a competition to do the move first or just to make it to be in a group. In fact I think that it is important to have that confidence with a belayer and be aware that they are good and bad belayer and that nobody like to be belay in a same way.

b- In a trad fall, you are stop by the rope. It is not always a clean fall and beginner always knock there knees or bruises there skin on the rock because the rope drag them. As they are beginner and climb easy stuff, they learned how to protect themselves in a fall. That process can be long and after many fall with the rope, you can evaluate the distance of a fall and the direction and protect yourself adequately. In boulder, you are always at your limit and fall on your leg or on a crash pad. There is no rope and the position of the body is thinking only in the sense of doing the move, not falling as a beginner do in trad.

c- the third reason is a little less evident. As you climb a route, you conquer a wall, you test your limit and you learn to, in the presence of an immediate danger, the fall, you learn how to control your nerve, how to control the stress.. In some case, the stress can be so hight that the person can not do the move. In boulder, in general and for beginner climber, the danger of a fall is not very important and very close to the ground. So one can be completely concentrate on doing the move without fear. As you progress in trad, your partner, as a belayer is a part of your success. You evaluate the risk and consequences of a fall and decide if you can take the risk of doing a move depending where you place your pro. Each climb is a test for you, it could be a run out in 5.7 or an easy 5.11 with a crack and a piece of pro at each five inches. Your goal is to test your limit emotionally and physically. As a boulder climber, you are doing a move to the perfect execution. You are not testing your limit, but you are pushing your limit.

Good or bad? it is not the question. If you think that you can do a route that you never did, know how to fall with a rope and the consequemces of the fall and that you are with a good is possible that you trad climb.   

Admin Al:
So I guess the question is:

Are people who start climbing by bouldering at a disadvantage from those who start by learning trad because the trad climbers understand the consequences of their actions better?

I know a number of people that do all types of climbing who got hurt badly bouldering (mostly lower limbs).
So I guess there could possibly be this mentality "if I survived 5 seasons of high ball bouldering without a scratch, how dangerous can climbing with a rope and gear be?".

lucky opines: " In boulder, in general and for beginner climber, the danger of a fall is not very important and very close to the ground. "

this statement makes me think he hasn't done much bouldering (or know very much about it...)

it may surprise him that 'highball" bouldering and "VBL" (which doesn't stand for "vapor barrier layer....") is a BIG part of the bouldering tradition.

in general, it's usually dangerous to make sweeping generalities from a limited number of observations, but it's something he's good at...

ed e

ps. lucky, if you find that you are getting a lot of "stupid answer on that post,"  perhaps it's because your  post is "stupid..."

pps. al, do you think someone doing a "full-on dyno" 15ft above a single crash pad won't understand the consequence of their action?

I thought you went with climbers from BOULDER.. they might have been waterlogged


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