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Author Topic: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad  (Read 2944 times)

lucky luke

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #45 on: November 02, 2013, 05:39:15 PM »

Taking the decision to not playing the game of people who just plug cam in the rock versus challenging some one to place his life in danger just for there plaisir...I prefer to keep my definition of trad climbing.

Sneoh...above is the answer to sam

Some time it is annoying.
A static rope and a sling is very similar. Knowing the problem of hamp rope is knowing the bad utilization of sling in trad climbing, when the use of the rope is safer (as sport is different, some technique of sport can be use and using the same technique in trad can be very dangerous).

2- To have a deep understanding of belaying: to gave slack when it is better to protect that a protection pop out, to gave a static belay when the leader can fall his back on the rock by a longer fall, and so many situation that you have to understand to climb x or r rating route safely. Those who climbed those route are in two categories: one who take the risk and was trap in the problem and manage to make the move...and those who have enough technique to do the move and don't really need a protection (like a 5.5x on a 5.8 route)

3- I used a hamp rope to climb the nose, we didn't lead with it, but the technique to haul a bag and the danger of an hamp rope is a very important concern in those route. Of course, with bolt, hauling is not very difficult. You can follow a procedure. But a haul bag of 80 pounds falling of 30 feet directly on the belay could  be dangerous.

Knowing the technique is very important in trad...and I suggest that people who don't have time for technique, who like to climb, do sport route and enjoy it. If you want to have a deep understanding of what you are doing and you want to take sound decision to protect your life...take your time and consider that if you begin with bouldering, some attitude will not be developed as easily as if you learn to trad first.
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DGoguen

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #46 on: November 02, 2013, 06:27:51 PM »

3- I used a hamp rope to climb the nose, we didn't lead with it, but the technique to haul a bag and the danger of an hamp rope is a very important concern in those route.
Are you saying you climbed "The Nose" on El Cap,  and hauled with a hemp rope?
Recently?
« Last Edit: November 02, 2013, 06:50:01 PM by DGoguen »
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JBrochu

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #47 on: November 02, 2013, 06:56:04 PM »

Come on dewd it was a hamp rope. Nobody climbs with a hemp rope anymore!
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #48 on: November 02, 2013, 07:37:55 PM »

OK, I believe we all understand the differences among sling, static rope, and dynamic rope.  No need to introduce hemp rope in order to understand the differences.

And belaying?  Please, enough can be learned using a dynamic rope and different belay devices and with the leader doing a number of different things under different situations.  I fail to see how using a hemp rope can help anyone know how to belay better using a dynamic rope.

And if you really used a hemp rope to do hauling on The Nose, then you are crazier than I suspected.  You failed on The Nose if memory serves, didn't you?  Maybe you messed yourself up by using a hemp rope!  Sorry, this is unfair but too hard to pass up. :)

And, please, most of us know the trade-off of a "hard" catch and a shorter fall versus a longer fall from a softer catch and what is means to the protection gear.  Give people some credit.  If people are really as clueless as you seem to think they/we are, there would be way more climber deaths.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

danf

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #49 on: November 02, 2013, 07:53:53 PM »

You do realize you're arguing with someone that quotes himself somewhat regularly, right?
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #50 on: November 02, 2013, 07:58:25 PM »

Yeah you are right; I am just killing myself over this.  I got to kick this bad habit!
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #51 on: November 02, 2013, 08:03:01 PM »

You do realize you're arguing with someone that quotes himself somewhat regularly, right?

Glad someone pointed this out
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DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #52 on: November 02, 2013, 08:04:45 PM »

Yeah you are right; I am just killing myself over this.  I got to kick this bad habit!

I'm thinking of starting a support group for NEClimbs members who have fallen for Champ/LL's repetitive regurgitated essays' over and over... We could have weekly meetings and talk about how many days we have gone without responding to any of LL's rants!
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DGoguen

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #53 on: November 02, 2013, 08:14:53 PM »

Ha Ha
You're about two minutes from a massive relapse at any point in time. Who are you sh****ng. You are not the "true"
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DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #54 on: November 02, 2013, 08:30:41 PM »

Ha Ha
You're about two minutes from a massive relapse at any point in time. Who are you sh****ng. You are not the "true"

Who better to be the founder of said support group than some one that knows his own weakness? Come brother, join us.
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #55 on: November 02, 2013, 08:48:48 PM »

Ha Ha
You're about two minutes from a massive relapse at any point in time.
How very true .... we need to be 100% vigilant, all the time!
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

darwined

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #56 on: November 02, 2013, 08:52:15 PM »

Ha Ha
You're about two minutes from a massive relapse at any point in time. Who are you sh****ng. You are not the "true"

Who better to be the founder of said support group than some one that knows his own weakness? Come brother, join us.
monthly meetings to be held in Rumney
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lucky luke

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #57 on: November 03, 2013, 09:09:31 AM »

OK, I believe we all understand the differences among sling, static rope, and dynamic rope.  No need to introduce hemp rope in order to understand the differences.

Sorry, it is static rope. As I red the history of rope, and static rope was hemp rope before, I use the same term for old and new static rope. Notice that the core could still be hemp material in static rope.

There was a very good graphic in mountaineering freedom of the hill showing the difference between hemp rope and dynamic rope. It is not there any more. I learned a lot with it and spend lot of time to understand how it can help to place pro. Particularly a theorical way of calculating the distance to place the pro in different situation. 
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lucky luke

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #58 on: November 03, 2013, 09:14:39 AM »

Give people some credit.  If people are really as clueless as you seem to think they/we are, there would be way more climber deaths.

There is one death per year in quebec due to climbing....and more accident happen despite a lower number of climber on the cliff.

The only reason why I support your sarcasm is because there is more death, other way...I do not care.
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DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #59 on: November 03, 2013, 09:17:46 AM »

...I use the same term for old and new static rope. Notice that the core could still be hemp material in static rope.

There was a very good graphic in mountaineering freedom of the hill showing the difference between hemp rope and dynamic rope. It is not there any more. I learned a lot with it and spend lot of time to understand how it can help to place pro. Particularly a theorical way of calculating the distance to place the pro in different situation.

No, the core of a static rope can not be made of hemp LOL. Not in 30+ years. Maybe that’s why it’s not in your FOTH bible?

How can you have a serious conversation when you mis-use such basic well defined words like “hemp” and “static”. As if you are not confusing enough for most readers now you make up your own definitions. Classic.

"Particularly a theorical way of calculating the distance to place the pro in different situation.”

Yes, the answer to that is = don’t hit a ledge, obstruction, or the ground if you fall.

Now I gotta turn in my chip.
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