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Author Topic: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad  (Read 2161 times)

crazyt

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2013, 03:29:41 AM »

Whatever
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Admin Al

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Al Hospers
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #32 on: November 01, 2013, 08:19:14 AM »

The final goal is to ban all traditional climbing technique, to create one ethic. 
Seriously?  Are you paranoid?
I think you need to travel more, meet a more diversed group of people/climbers, get to know them well.  You may even tamper your extreme views.  Seriously.
I believe trad climbing is alive and well, maybe even gaining a little resurgence.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

JBrochu

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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #34 on: November 01, 2013, 09:04:10 AM »

Shucks, I see lots of folks out there trad climbing. go to the Gunks on a warm weekend... Sure there are crowds at Rumney, but there are still a lot of people placing gear on good climbs.
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krankonthis

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #35 on: November 01, 2013, 09:46:34 AM »

luke the reason I get scared trad climbing is because R and X climbing is scary not because I bouldered.  I know how to fall and trust a rope, blah blah.
Yeah I don't see why you should be scared on 5.10 trad unless its r/x. Luke have you climbed Grimreaper?
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krankonthis

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #36 on: November 01, 2013, 09:54:31 AM »

Knowledge handed down from the man himself, Tommy Cladwell
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQ2k876YuPw
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DGoguen

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #37 on: November 01, 2013, 10:08:50 AM »

I see lots of folks out there trad climbing. go to the Gunks on a warm weekend
Ah, but do they follow heuristic, superficial, safe parent rules or do they have a "balls deep understanding" like the man himself.
Placing gear doesn't make you Trad. You need a secret international handshake.
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DaveR

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #38 on: November 01, 2013, 10:22:49 AM »

Yeah I don't see why you should be scared on 5.10 trad unless its r/x. Luke have you climbed Grimreaper?

I lead it and felt sick and was shaking after.  :P

Is that because I was;
a) scared
b) not a good trad climber
c) old and more sensible
d) a bolt clipping wuss
e) all of the above

Please tell me what was wrong with me Luke!

If 5.10 trad doesn't scare you Luke you need to climb harder. I can give you a list of 5.8 and 5.9 rx routes that WILL scare the shit out of you!!

Dave
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #39 on: November 01, 2013, 10:53:38 AM »

If 5.10 trad doesn't scare you Luke you need to climb harder.
I can give you a list of 5.8 and 5.9 rx routes that WILL scare the shit out of you!!
Amen.
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steve weitzler

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #40 on: November 01, 2013, 11:23:19 AM »

I lead it and felt sick and was shaking after.

f) High
g) Drunk
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DaveR

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2013, 12:16:19 PM »

I lead it and felt sick and was shaking after.

f) High
g) Drunk

You forgot all of the above Steve!
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lucky luke

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #42 on: November 01, 2013, 05:57:48 PM »

I know guy, working a route for days, and finally doing a 5.13. After, they send it with the use of cam. Big deal. Go in a gym, try parallel bar, train a routine many time...and you will be able to do complex move. This is the same as climbing a 5.13 after many repetition. It could be fun, you could like it. But I don't like it. I prefer to learn like jackson 20 years ago when sport doesn't exist. And I am pretty sure that you don't learn by yourself, but with old climber with a strong trad ethic.

If you define trad climbing as some one who place cam in a crack...you are right that many people trad climb. In that way...the only think you can do is climbing classic with a lot of pro.

If you define trad as the people use to do it when they use piton and have to place less gear to avoid to be to tired, and you learn the similitude between hamp rope and dynamic rope and you use that technique, do multi pitch route in remote area, etc.. you never qualify 80 percent of the climber using cam as trad climber.

ordinarly, a good 5.10 climber can doa 5.8X route without too difficulty. There is always sand bag or situation that are very dangerous. Taking the decision to not playing the game of people who just plug cam in the rock versus challenging some one to place his life in danger just for there plaisir...I prefer to keep my definition of trad climbing. 

« Last Edit: November 03, 2013, 08:15:28 AM by Admin Al »
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krankonthis

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #43 on: November 01, 2013, 10:08:44 PM »

luke have you climbed grimreaper?
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sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #44 on: November 01, 2013, 10:38:30 PM »

Why does one need to know the similarity and difference between hamp and nylon dynamic rope in order to qualify as "trad" by ->you<- ?
Why is knowing all that needs to be known about dynamic climbing rope insufficient?
When was the last time *you* led on a hamp rope?  Such arbitrary and asinine rule!

And answer the question put to you by Sam.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ
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