Author Topic: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad  (Read 15928 times)

sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #105 on: November 06, 2013, 10:17:10 PM »
And don't forget the 3 feet of snow for extra cushion, Ward.
Heck, Nalle does it so why shouldn't us geezers?

Offline eyebolter

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #106 on: November 07, 2013, 11:27:37 AM »
And don't forget the 3 feet of snow for extra cushion, Ward.
Heck, Nalle does it so why shouldn't us geezers?


Yeah I have a V5 that is about 35 feet high with the crux at the top.  I'm waiting for winter and a big snow and am going to make a  HUGE pile at the base. 

This is "Light Sabre," V4 that I have bouldered barefoot, but only after shoveling and making a big snow pile landing.   Kind of scary at the top as you will pitch off backwards, maybe 30 feet to the ground as it slopes away.   Nobody has fallen to test out the landing....yet.

« Last Edit: November 07, 2013, 11:31:21 AM by eyebolter »

sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #107 on: November 07, 2013, 11:08:59 PM »
The top does look scary, Ward, huge pile of snow or not!

Hey, LL/Champ, tell me bouldering this without spotters does not look scary to you (every after extensive TR practice).


Offline Admin Al

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #108 on: November 08, 2013, 09:17:19 AM »
Quote
1) When possible attach to the anchor with something more dynamic than a sling (climbing rope works wonders here)

not really sure I believe that 1 meter or less of climbing rope is all that much more dynamic than a sling, dyneema or otherwise. maybe the knot might make it more so tho...
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JakeDatc

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #109 on: November 08, 2013, 10:55:04 AM »
there is probably drop testing data somewhere. 

Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #110 on: November 08, 2013, 11:09:07 AM »
not really sure I believe that 1 meter or less of climbing rope is all that much more dynamic than a sling, dyneema or otherwise. maybe the knot might make it more so tho...

It's hard to judge. My thinking has always been that the force necessary for it to matter is hard to fathom in everyday use of the gear. So tugging on it, or bouncing on it doesn't do the trick.  I rigged some stuff to a come-along in my barn (because I was making repairs, not because I am a pull-testing geek) and was shocked at the difference in flex between steel cable, webbing, and old climbing rope. Suffice it to say, I'm using cable in there now. :)
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JakeDatc

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #111 on: November 08, 2013, 11:51:38 AM »
The problem is when you go above an anchor and slip the force is pretty hard..  like taking a mini whipper with no rope out.. its a pretty harsh fall.    so to get high forces doesn't take much length. 

DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #112 on: November 08, 2013, 12:47:33 PM »
Quote
1) When possible attach to the anchor with something more dynamic than a sling (climbing rope works wonders here)

not really sure I believe that 1 meter or less of climbing rope is all that much more dynamic than a sling, dyneema or otherwise. maybe the knot might make it more so tho...

Consider this:

Your average 10mm climbing rope has about 10% static elongation.

Your average nylon sling has less than 1% static elongation.

Your average dynex/dynema sling is basically steel.

So if you compare a 24 inch tie-in;

The rope will stretch 2.4 inches from static loading, but roughly three times that amount under extreme dynamic loading (7.2 inches)

The nylon sling will only stretch 2.4 inches if dynamically loaded. The dynex will not stretch at all (zero energy absorption).

I'm not saying you shouldn't attach with a nylon sling, though I think you could easily make the argument you should not attach with dynex.

Another consideration is simply how much more edge/cut resistant the rope is than a nylon sling. (Think unexpected rockfall hitting anchor).

Bottom line, unless you are rappelling there is little reason not to use the rope to attach to the anchor.

Offline lucky luke

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #113 on: November 08, 2013, 02:12:53 PM »
Your average nylon sling has less than 1% static elongation. [...]

The nylon sling will only stretch 2.4 inches if dynamically loaded. The dynex will not stretch at all (zero energy absorption).

isn't it 0.24 ?

sneoh

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #114 on: November 08, 2013, 02:59:17 PM »
LL's right, about 0.24 inch for nylon sling.

DLottmann

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Re: three reasons to not bouldering before doing trad
« Reply #115 on: November 08, 2013, 03:51:50 PM »
Your average nylon sling has less than 1% static elongation. [...]

The nylon sling will only stretch 2.4 inches if dynamically loaded. The dynex will not stretch at all (zero energy absorption).

isn't it 0.24 ?

Yup, my bad. I was never great at math. But that further illustrates my point to Al... Nylon is quite static and while I don't expect people to try bungee jumping off the belay ledge on a nylon sling... ya never know ;)