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Author Topic: Future Shock  (Read 503 times)

JoeC

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Future Shock
« on: September 30, 2013, 10:59:14 PM »

I would like to work on the second pitch of this thing.  What would be the best way to get to it?  I know it is most likely going to be involved.
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Admin Al

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2013, 06:47:51 AM »

Other than the obvious and snarky reply of "just climb it", perhaps climb Ladies An Gentlemen and rap over it. Maybe you can get there from the top of Loose Lips?
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JoeC

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2013, 09:16:55 AM »

The reason I ask, last time I was up there and the chains I did not see any bolts on the second pitch.  And I dont think there is an anchor up there
« Last Edit: October 01, 2013, 09:18:41 AM by JoeC »
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strandman

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2013, 09:31:13 AM »

If you get to the halfway traverse ledge via , looselips, an Echo route or whatever, it
s a maybe 100' rap. The anchor WAS a tree, but that was a while ago.  Any bolts left are almost  certainly from the f/a in '81

Good luck, it's 5.13 for sure
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JoeC

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2013, 09:44:49 AM »

Thanks john.  I would like to work it on toprope first. Also maybe add an anchor up there.  So a single fixed single should get me down to work on it?
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strandman

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2013, 10:33:18 AM »

I would think a 60m should do it.. it's a pretty short pitch  (50' ?).. the start has gone and i fell off the move to the lip 3 times BITD
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terminusnout

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Re: Future Shock
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2013, 07:51:47 PM »

BEAUTIFUL section of rock, get at it joe! I looked at getting over there from the top of last tango via the left rising sloping ramp at tango's anchor but didnt see anything inspiring to anchor off. That is a really amazing slab of granite, so smooth!
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