General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Eaglet - 1st Pitch

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markvnh:
I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. I went up today and did the first pitch as described on Mt. Project and damn the moves by the pin on the first pitch sure were pretty hard. Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.

So that got me to thinking was I actually on the right first pitch. Webster's first edition guide says access west gulley to the base of the chimney. Which is the way I probably climbed it the first time I climbed it as it's a bit of a thrash. The other times I have climbed rock to the gulley but again do not remember it being as hard as it felt today. Webster's guide also has a South Face route without a grade but with almost the same description as MP. I also thought it might have been the start to Peregrine ArÍte but it's not.

So does anybody know what the grade of the first pitch is that I did today and is that the normal start these days? Or did I miss something somewhere.

Or I guess it could be I'm just getting older (and a bit jet lagged having just gotten home from a business trip to Belgium).

Thanks everyone for your feedback.

tim03303:
I've always climbed as you described.  Up on some blocky moves, a stretching step left and then up with a couple side pulls, 5.6ish.  The second pin (had some tat last time) is a red herring.

DLottmann:
That first pitch is awkward 5.7 with the crux moves pretty close to the ground, then eases up a bit as it gets into a bit of a right facing corner with some loose stuff towards the end... A good pitch I think and I usually do it that way now rather than soloing up the scrappy 4th class gully, which would be wise to use a rope on if not "feeling it". As for more specific beta, all I can recall is after clipping the 1st pin look to traverse left a bit as soon as possible... it's a bit heady, but all the holds are there....

EDIT: yup, good photo posted by Tim

lucky luke:

--- Quote from: markvnh on October 01, 2013, 07:30:18 PM ---I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. [...] Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.[...]Thanks everyone for your feedback.

--- End quote ---

you too getting old

sniff!!!

markvnh:
Thanks guys! At least I was on the right pitch. And my gear was the same as in Tim's pic. I'd just would have liked to find his 5.6 ish moves! Maybe I climbed a bit too high before traversing left. Now I've just got to remember to traverse left sooner the next time.

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