Eaglet - 1st Pitch

[markvnh]

I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. I went up today and did the first pitch as described on Mt. Project and damn the moves by the pin on the first pitch sure were pretty hard. Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.

So that got me to thinking was I actually on the right first pitch. Webster's first edition guide says access west gulley to the base of the chimney. Which is the way I probably climbed it the first time I climbed it as it's a bit of a thrash. The other times I have climbed rock to the gulley but again do not remember it being as hard as it felt today. Webster's guide also has a South Face route without a grade but with almost the same description as MP. I also thought it might have been the start to Peregrine Aręte but it's not.

So does anybody know what the grade of the first pitch is that I did today and is that the normal start these days? Or did I miss something somewhere.

Or I guess it could be I'm just getting older (and a bit jet lagged having just gotten home from a business trip to Belgium).

Thanks everyone for your feedback.

[tim03303]

I've always climbed as you described.  Up on some blocky moves, a stretching step left and then up with a couple side pulls, 5.6ish.  The second pin (had some tat last time) is a red herring.

[DLottmann]

That first pitch is awkward 5.7 with the crux moves pretty close to the ground, then eases up a bit as it gets into a bit of a right facing corner with some loose stuff towards the end... A good pitch I think and I usually do it that way now rather than soloing up the scrappy 4th class gully, which would be wise to use a rope on if not "feeling it". As for more specific beta, all I can recall is after clipping the 1st pin look to traverse left a bit as soon as possible... it's a bit heady, but all the holds are there....

EDIT: yup, good photo posted by Tim

[lucky luke]

I've climbed the Eaglet a half dozen times or so over the years but it's been at least ten years or longer since the last time. [...] Harder than I remembered. Plus there was a second pin out right that wasn't even used.[...]Thanks everyone for your feedback.

you too getting old

sniff!!!

[markvnh]

Thanks guys! At least I was on the right pitch. And my gear was the same as in Tim's pic. I'd just would have liked to find his 5.6 ish moves! Maybe I climbed a bit too high before traversing left. Now I've just got to remember to traverse left sooner the next time.

[tradmanclimbz]

Pretty sure The pin out right is the start of the Ed Webster 9+

[perswig]

Is this out in Franconia Notch?  With Salt Packed Pig Sack or something like that (Jon Sykes/J. Cunningham route?)?
That crag looks too fun, alpine-y with loose stuff and good views. 

Cool pic.
Dale

[DLottmann]

Is this out in Franconia Notch?  With Salt Packed Pig Sack or something like that (Jon Sykes/J. Cunningham route?)?
That crag looks too fun, alpine-y with loose stuff and good views. 

Cool pic.
Dale

This is the only free standing spire in New Hampshire and a must do! A great moderate day out there for me that I've repeated many times is:

1) Route 66.... rap
2) Salt Pack Pig Sack... rap
3) Finish climbing Eaglet via original start + West Chimney

oh and...

4) Woodstock Brewery for happy hour.

[markvnh]

...no climbing trip to Franconia Notch or anywhere else for that matter is complete if the drive home take you down 93 south and you don't stop at the Woodstock Brewery! Great beer and half price appetizers between 3:00 and 5:00!

[DLottmann]

...Great beer and half price appetizers between 3:00 and 5:00!

I time my trail-head time and bail time based off this fact...

[slink]

 d man there is a 45-55 ft free standing pillar in the woods not sure if it has been climbed yet. M Sprague would know.

[M_Sprague]

I would?  I am drawing a blank at the moment.

[frik]

Roger's spire? - hello!

also: the beer at woostock station is blandly boring in a repetitively redundant manner.

[DLottmann]

Roger's spire? - hello!

also: the beer at woostock station is blandly boring in a repetitively redundant manner.

Roger' Spire, is a detached "flake" at best... really shouldn't be called "Spire", but meh...

I agree Woodstock Brew is getting quite blah, but the half-off apps are still worth the stop!

[markvnh]

...back on topic - thanks for the feedback and setting me straight! I was on the right first pitch but just went at it a little bit differently than I probably should have.