Eaglet - 1st Pitch

[terminusnout]

ever climb any of the rock around where the Garcia-Vega ice route is?

[markvnh]

I know there are some sport climbs if you walk further uphill from the Eaglet. I believe this is called the High Tension Area from what I've found online. Probably John Sykes and friends put these up.

Are there routes near Garcia-Vega?

[DLottmann]

I know there are some sport climbs if you walk further uphill from the Eaglet. I believe this is called the High Tension Area from what I've found online. Probably John Sykes and friends put these up.

Are there routes near Garcia-Vega?

I think this area is also called "The Long Wall" in Sykes guidebook... I have never been over to Garcua Vega and don't know if there are routes over there

[smartpig]

Buzzsaw
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2008, 10:15:09 PM »
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The sport routes that you asked about are on what is now known as the Falcon Wall. Starting from left to right is the route closest to the chimney goes at 5.12d or 5.13a following a flairing crack rap bolted by John Mallery. Next is a 5.11d/5.12a, also Mallery. Next in line is a hard 5.12c, again Mallery. The easyest route on the wall was done by me rope solo and goes at 5.10c, ground up. I gave John the ok to rap bolt it. A moment of weakness. The last route on the face just before the arret is Johns and goes at 5.12b/c. The arret goes free at 5.10 and was first climbed by Larry Boemhler and me at 5.9 A1, and I freed it belayed by Chris Marks. Even with the bolts it has some very alpine {scary} climbing on it. I highly recommend it if you love adventure. Syko P.S. Left of Garcia Vega {ice climb} are five 5.9s. four climbed by me and one by Chuck Woodman, the farthest left.       
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gags
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2008, 07:59:40 PM »
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Buzzsaw,
Are the 5.9's you speak of between Garcia Vega and The Eaglet or are they the Pig Sack to Route 66?
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Buzzsaw
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Re: Eaglet
« Reply #14 on: September 20, 2008, 09:57:21 PM »
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These five routes all rated 5.9R are just left of Garcia Vega. The closest one to Garcia Vega is two eighty foot pitches. the first pitch is bolted and climbs to a two bolt belay. The second pitch is very alpine and R rated. The next route left is 180 feet long and has the most runout section up high. The next climb is also 180 feet long and one should carry a small selection of pins to climb it as safely as possible. The fourth climb is a face to crack climb that is runout on the bottom and fun crack climbing on the top. The last climb is Chuck Woodman's climb and starts with bolts and finishes on nice crack climbing. It was the first route done on this wall and is the first climb that one passes on the way to Garcia Vega and the Falcon Wall. To get there walk past the Eaglet fifty feet then turn right and walk across loose talus to Chucks route and all the rest. Safe climbing, Syko   

[Admin Al]

ThnX for pulling all that info together Jamie...

[bubbalee]

you cannot climb the eaglet and not do the second pitch 5.7 on the wall out behind the eaglet. traverse across the saddle just below the summit to a hanging belay. then head straight up improbable looking crack with fantastic holds and good gear with excellent exposure and many slight variations all super fun 150ft+. walk up to the right to a hidden anchor(down over edge) at the very upper end of cliff near the gully topout

[Admin Al]

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