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Author Topic: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA  (Read 1906 times)

Offline franknfrank

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"Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« on: October 02, 2013, 05:36:27 PM »
On sight yesterday 10-01-13 .This is the right slanting  ow located above the start of tangerine scream.Big bros and cams to 9"-all gear placed on the lead.  I was belayed by my wife Carol-Ann and powered by Bagels from Bagels Plus.  If you decide to lead be careful for the loose rock on the bottom pitch.
--Frank Dahlmeyer
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2013, 08:08:20 PM »
Sounds like the climb that George Hurley wanted to do...
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Offline franknfrank

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2013, 08:22:09 PM »
I have all the big stuff to do it with if George would like to borrow it wouldnt be a problem.Trying to get a pic of it to ya but the site keeps saying the files too big -any ideas?? Frank
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2013, 06:28:49 AM »
Quote from: franknfrank on October 02, 2013, 08:22:09 PM
I have all the big stuff to do it with if George would like to borrow it wouldnt be a problem.Trying to get a pic of it to ya but the site keeps saying the files too big -any ideas?? Frank

you can't post a picture bigger than 125k. send it to me directly at al (at) neclimbs (dot) com
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Offline crazyt

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2013, 11:31:49 AM »
Nice work Frank! That's a real prize and an amazing line!
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Offline Admin Al

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2013, 01:14:24 PM »
Here's the picture...nice one!
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Offline M_Sprague

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2013, 02:16:15 PM »
Nice Job, Frank! Brady Libby, Todd Shaifer and I had looked at it last year and  got all jazzed to come back later and try it. We thought it was going to be a lot harder, figuring some of the strong climbers who go there had tried it, though. It looks like such a cool line.

Did it require real off-width technique, or could those like me who aren't skilled in it have a chance?
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Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2013, 02:28:02 PM »
Quote from: Admin Al on October 03, 2013, 01:14:24 PM
Here's the picture...nice one!

+1 Holy moly. Big bros, big cams!

Nicely done!
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Offline franknfrank

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Re: "Pride and Joy" -5.10 a/b offwidth -shell pond -FFA
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2013, 03:06:54 PM »
Hi All-I think a bit of ow technique will get you far on this one.The first part of the crack had small edges for feet,this with an armbar to move off of worked well .The upper section where the feet get thin a chicken wing seemed necessary to stay in along with some leg jamming.I thought is was going to be harder also when I first looked at the line
-- definately easier than piss easy -but harder to protect--all in all a great line --get on it!!!Frank  (embrace the wide)
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