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Author Topic: Route 66  (Read 288 times)

ToddSH

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Route 66
« on: October 04, 2013, 07:10:39 AM »

Just wondering if you need any big gear for this route, like something bigger than a #3.  It has been a long time since I have been up there.  Thanks.
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DMan

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Re: Route 66
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2013, 07:59:22 AM »

Nope.... #2 is biggest thing you need....
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Route 66
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2013, 07:50:39 PM »

Actually a #3 Blue camalot comes in mighty handy on P1 (beware the local who has things wired as they sometimes under estimate the onsight dificulty) the real critical beta is to avoid the direct grass and bushes R/X approach. hike left along the base of the cliff for 20m to a sheltered ledge next to a block. from here you can do a much more secure 5.3 approach  with just a little bit of brushy /loose rock scambleing on the move to the right just before the base of the climb.
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DMan

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Re: Route 66
« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2013, 08:01:12 PM »

spot on beta tradman, that grass gully sucks... and if you are comfortable on 5.3 I think you can leave the #3 at home but YMMV
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Route 66
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2013, 09:10:36 PM »

Did Not count that as P1. that is the approach?  i use big blue in the wide crack after the initial slab  to protect the Akward and somewhat strenous  move up the big flake. YMMV obviously but I would not steer someone up there with no 3" piece unless they were pretty hard and dead set on traveling light.
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DMan

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Re: Route 66
« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2013, 09:46:06 PM »

When it all comes down to it no harm in carrying a #3 for an on-sight right?

Iíve do this in 2 pitches, traverse left to the nice flat rope up ledge, long, almost 190 foot pitch to the bolts (using long slings), then 2nd pitch....

Really good idea to scope this route out from the bike path IMO, they even have a metered spotting scope thing there you can use for .50 cents...
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