General > Rock Climbing: Trad


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Reading Yankee rock and ice. From the photos and text it seems almost certain that with all the fixed aid pitons that Foops was a sport climb. I can not Imagin that Jstan would have pulled and then replaced his pins on every try? In light of all the trad Vs sport arguments over the years I find it quite amuseing that one of the great Trad milestone climbs was actually a sport climb  ;D

It was all your own gear up the 5.9 crack at the bottom, then all fixed. But yes, pretty much a sport climb through the roof.  Definitely my favorite crag at the Gunks; it sucks that it is closed.

Agreed Skytop is/was awesome.. great lines out there

Remember, no fixed stuff on Open Cockpit,, and one pin (maybe ) on Persistent..Stannard must have run out

Sky Top closing was and is a huge disappointment.
I was fantasizing climbing Foops in the early 90's.  By the time I was strong enough in the mid 90's to have a chance, sky top had closed.

Another thing about pitons in the gunks is that when newly placed in a horizontal crack they were extremely reliable. As placements aged they did not resemble sport climbing gear. Some stuff would go unreplaced for quite a while. Skytop opening up again to regular folks  would get my lazy ass motivated. It sure was a loady's delight when the ranger pickup truck would occasionally cart a few bums like me to the springhouse.


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