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Author Topic: questions and stuff  (Read 485 times)

crazyt

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questions and stuff
« on: October 07, 2013, 11:59:28 AM »

Maybe 20 yrs ago my friend jay and I went to crack in the woods crag where we started a new line on the right arete of the venus vemiculite corner. managed to hand drill 3 bolts free on lead up to the ledge. Went back there the other day to finally finish it and it was gone. Someone did a nice job removing the bolts as there was zero evidence they ever existed. It still looks like an attractive line to me.
 On another note, I've been doing some climbing on North Sugarloaf, Zealand area. I remember doing the routes that were in Websters guide and continued further around right(north) and found a nice wall about 70 ft high and way steep. On the far left side we climbed a nice hand crack and starting from the far right side we climbed broken rock to a beautiful horizontal crack that cut across the entire wall. Aided it clean A1 to a beautiful finish through a roof with a hand crack. Potential 5.12 for the young guns out there. Anyone know more about these routes No evidence of previous ascents but these routes probably looked even better 20 years ago so I suspect they've been done.
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Admin Al

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Re: questions and stuff
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2013, 02:04:28 PM »

Maybe 20 yrs ago my friend jay and I went to crack in the woods crag where we started a new line on the right arete of the venus vemiculite corner. managed to hand drill 3 bolts free on lead up to the ledge. Went back there the other day to finally finish it and it was gone. Someone did a nice job removing the bolts as there was zero evidence they ever existed. It still looks like an attractive line to me.

there were a number of bolts chopped there several years ago, including a route put up by Joe Kinder. I can't remember the guy who did it, but he does a lot of ice climbing at the Lake. he gave me a lot of crap one time about my simply replacing the bolts on Rapid Transit.
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JBrochu

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Re: questions and stuff
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2013, 02:35:19 PM »

WTF at chopping bolts placed on lead (or any FA for that matter) and bitching about replacing existing bolts...?  ???
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crazyt

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Re: questions and stuff
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2013, 03:03:12 AM »

Not looking to stir the pot or anything. Like I said, it's been 20 yrs. Would have prefered to see someone finish it :)

Anyone familiar with N Loaf? That line my friend jay lena and I aided was the shiz. Someone has to know something.

Tom Bowker
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Admin Al

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Re: questions and stuff
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2013, 07:00:52 AM »

Anyone familiar with N Loaf? That line my friend jay lena and I aided was the shiz. Someone has to know something.

I would think that Jamie Cunningham (aka smartpig) would know...
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