General > Epics and Accidents

Rumney Accident (x-post from MP)

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Pete Jackson:
I wasn't there and haven't talked to anyone involved, but this thread on MP discusses a serious accident on Bonehead Roof this past weekend.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/quickdraw-unclips-from-bolt-climber-injured-nh/108371906

It sounds like there are several open questions:

1) did the leader clip the draw in the right direction?
2) were the draws configured correctly?
3) given that was back-cleaning the 2nd to last bolt was unwise, what would a safer course of action have been?
4) do eyebolts that stick out a bit contribute to this kind of accident? Clearly they're not the cause, but are there other factors that increase risk when taken in concert with pokey eyebolts?

Sounds like the injured party will recover. Hopefully this one gets written up for ANAM: the discussion of this incident could net some useful info.

eyebolter:
Pilot error. 

Why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?   If you think that rope drag will be a problem, use a full length runner or even a double or triple draw on that bolt.  I have no idea why so many climbers think that everything is fine with only one piece of gear (even a bolt) between you and eternity.  I see it all the time, and am surprised that accidents like this don't happen more often.  ALWAYS think about what will happen if the piece you could fall on fails.

Pete Jackson:

--- Quote from: eyebolter on October 07, 2013, 05:03:38 PM ---Why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?   If you think that rope drag will be a problem, use a full length runner or even a double or triple draw on that bolt.  I have no idea why so many climbers think that everything is fine with only one piece of gear (even a bolt) between you and eternity.  I see it all the time, and am surprised that accidents like this don't happen more often.  ALWAYS think about what will happen if the piece you could fall on fails.

--- End quote ---

This was definitely an unfortunate screwup on the climber's part, no arguments there. Interestingly, followup discussion has eliminated questions 1 and 2 above: according to the reporter, the draws were configured and clipped properly. I thought this might be a real-world example of Petzl's worst-case-scenario with respect to gate configuration.

I do not suggest that this accident could be anyone other than the climber's fault. Back-cleaning was the crucial mistake responsible for injury here. But, I do wonder whether an eyebolt that has not been troughed / recessed is more susceptible to unclipping.

eyebolter:
This route has had another similar accident before.  Could another bolt be added to the start of the roof?  I haven't done it in a while so I don't remember.   If so, Jim Shimberg would probably be ok with another bolt if asked about it beforehand.

tradmanclimbz:
  I had a green camalot placement with QD unclip from the rope @ the crux when i inadvertantly kicked the rope end biner. No fall but an eye opener. annother time did the same thing with an ice screw hitting the biner with a crampon.

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