Rumney Accident (x-post from MP)

[Pete Jackson]

I wasn't there and haven't talked to anyone involved, but this thread on MP discusses a serious accident on Bonehead Roof this past weekend.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/quickdraw-unclips-from-bolt-climber-injured-nh/108371906

It sounds like there are several open questions:

1) did the leader clip the draw in the right direction?
2) were the draws configured correctly?
3) given that was back-cleaning the 2nd to last bolt was unwise, what would a safer course of action have been?
4) do eyebolts that stick out a bit contribute to this kind of accident? Clearly they're not the cause, but are there other factors that increase risk when taken in concert with pokey eyebolts?

Sounds like the injured party will recover. Hopefully this one gets written up for ANAM: the discussion of this incident could net some useful info.

[eyebolter]

Pilot error. 

Why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?   If you think that rope drag will be a problem, use a full length runner or even a double or triple draw on that bolt.  I have no idea why so many climbers think that everything is fine with only one piece of gear (even a bolt) between you and eternity.  I see it all the time, and am surprised that accidents like this don't happen more often.  ALWAYS think about what will happen if the piece you could fall on fails.

[Pete Jackson]

Why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?   If you think that rope drag will be a problem, use a full length runner or even a double or triple draw on that bolt.  I have no idea why so many climbers think that everything is fine with only one piece of gear (even a bolt) between you and eternity.  I see it all the time, and am surprised that accidents like this don't happen more often.  ALWAYS think about what will happen if the piece you could fall on fails.

This was definitely an unfortunate screwup on the climber's part, no arguments there. Interestingly, followup discussion has eliminated questions 1 and 2 above: according to the reporter, the draws were configured and clipped properly. I thought this might be a real-world example of Petzl's worst-case-scenario with respect to gate configuration.

I do not suggest that this accident could be anyone other than the climber's fault. Back-cleaning was the crucial mistake responsible for injury here. But, I do wonder whether an eyebolt that has not been troughed / recessed is more susceptible to unclipping.

[eyebolter]

This route has had another similar accident before.  Could another bolt be added to the start of the roof?  I haven't done it in a while so I don't remember.   If so, Jim Shimberg would probably be ok with another bolt if asked about it beforehand.

[tradmanclimbz]

  I had a green camalot placement with QD unclip from the rope @ the crux when i inadvertantly kicked the rope end biner. No fall but an eye opener. annother time did the same thing with an ice screw hitting the biner with a crampon.

[lucky luke]

Pilot error. 

Why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?   If you think that rope drag will be a problem, use a full length runner or even a double or triple draw on that bolt.  I have no idea why so many climbers think that everything is fine with only one piece of gear (even a bolt) between you and eternity.  I see it all the time, and am surprised that accidents like this don't happen more often.  ALWAYS think about what will happen if the piece you could fall on fails.

I agree. when I had to back clean, I built an anchor, back cleaned and go forward. In aid or if there is no anchor, I leave at least three good pro before backcleaning. As you said: why clean the draw on the bolt below the roof?

[JakeDatc]

Champ have you even done Bonehead roof?    i'm guessing not.  this is sport climbing.. not aid climbing

if you read the post on Mtn project or the comments in the route description where it was reported   then you'd see that he was trying to reduce rope drag  since the route goes from a slab to a steep roof then back to vertical again.  a 2' sling fixes this. 

[lucky luke]

i'm guessing not.  this is sport climbing.. not aid climbing

I trad practically only. So, when I back clean, it is in trad. In Accident in north American mountaineering, we saw more accident of this kind with dramatic ending.

For a trad climber, it is the level of a beginner not to trust just on one bolt. I'm guessing that the climber think that he was good and it is just bad luck. But when we learn safety before hard move it is pure ignorance, not an accident. I notice that kind of climber in recompense who anchor himself with just one biner and did dangerous move in the crux. We have more accident of that kind because there is more people with a sport climb background who just imitate without understanding what look like an evidence...reducing rope drag.



As I went to climb 5.11 next year...I have to try hard move.

[old_school]

I always used a double length on that section...drag is minimal at best and, though I still would not want to take that fall, you aren't going to hit the ground. The crux is short and looks easier from the ground and unfortunately can attract some folks that might underestimate how pumpy and steep the crux moves are on that. Sure hope the climber recovers fully and quickly.

[tradmanclimbz]

It has been about 14 yrs but i believe that Isa placed a cam under the roof as she thought the bolts were a bit far apart?

[JakeDatc]

I remember taking a few cams up there but not finding a spot.   I haven't done it in years because I don't like that move and find Med Dose Madness to be a much better route. 

[DaveR]

It has been about 14 yrs but i believe that Isa placed a cam under the roof as she thought the bolts were a bit far apart?

red Camalot works