Author Topic: Longstack Precipice  (Read 503 times)

Offline DaveR

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Longstack Precipice
« on: October 08, 2013, 11:35:35 AM »
Are climbs there soft for the grade or have I become a good slab climber? I have not climbed slabs in 20 years because I found them terrifying and have very easily ticked off many of the hard routes at Longstack. How do the grades there compare with the slab grades in the MWV?

Offline strandman

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Re: Longstack Precipice
« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2013, 02:37:43 PM »
Maybe your getting better.. i got some slabs for ya 

Offline Chinos

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Re: Longstack Precipice
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2013, 07:21:07 PM »
i think the grades there were solid when the place was developed. due to the big increase in traffic i think the routes have cleaned up alot, and some new key holds have been found in the lichen. the friction is also much better than those polished valley routes!

Offline terminusnout

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Re: Longstack Precipice
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2013, 07:52:09 PM »
Done a ton of climbing in both areas and I feel that its incomparable, the routes in the New Durham area are VERY different from the routes in Conway or Franconia. Due to the water polished nature of the rock in Conway the routes have a very slippery feel to them, add in untrackable numbers of ascents each year and you have some pretty greasy stuff. The rock in New Durham is a metamorphic rock that ended up with a ton of features namely horizontals, a 10 "slab" route at Longstack with have the normal trickery that comes along with climbing in the New Durham area. Over in Conway any of the classic 10 slab routes on Whitehorse are pretty much friction based climbing with a thank god face hold thrown in here and there. I feel the difficulty is the same but the climbing is different.

Offline jeddy1100

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Re: Longstack Precipice
« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2013, 09:09:12 AM »
See I climb here a lot and when I go other places, like up north I feel the most of the climbing feels soft(besides Cathedral). I think if you hit the moves right it will feel like the right grade. But if you mess up the sequence it will be a lot harder.