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Author Topic: George and Al's good adventure.  (Read 547 times)

Admin Al

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George and Al's good adventure.
« on: October 10, 2013, 08:04:14 PM »

After a 6 hour drive from North Conway, which included a 20 minute lunch/stretch break, we arrived at the Gunks. We decided to go directly to the cliff and get in a route or two to acclimate. For a change we decided to go to the Nears and picked out Dizneyland. George won't he toss and led first. He was going to belay so we could do it in2 pitches, but he forgot and went to the top. There is a really awkward mantle/wallow around the corner about 40' up that I teased him about, but I didn't do it any better when I followed it. The weather was cloudy and a bit raw, and it started to spit as I was climbing still, it was great getting on that great rock and being somewhere different. We're hoping that it doesn't rain tomorrow, but it doesn't look great.
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Al Hospers
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David_G48

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2013, 08:13:01 PM »

Did you walk off climbers right. Having done that routes many times I have never found a graceful way to do the mantle. George must have placed some long slings to avoid the rope drag. Glad you were able to beat the rain today.
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Admin Al

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2013, 07:43:04 AM »

Rapped from a tree 50' right.  There is no graceful move...
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2013, 08:21:30 AM »

So in spite of the weather predictions, the weather onFriday was excellent. And today has dawned clear, blue and bright. Perfect Gunks weather. We met up with 3 friends yesterday and had a great time. I led Snookys Revenge and Middle Earth and Jeff Lea led V 3. George climbed Cakewalk, Madame G and put a TR on Never Never Land with Lisa B and Bob O.

Good Fun...
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2013, 04:09:52 PM »

George's slide show last nite at Rock and Snow went very well. There were probably 50 people there and everyone seemed suitably enthralled. It's great to see those classic climbs and the folks who put them up BITD.

Today was another beautiful day here at the Gunks! The same crew climbed together, with good results. We got a little bit of a late start, only getting to the parking lot about 9! It was a good thing we weren't any later because the lot already was full. We got one of the last slots!!!

Bob O'Brian led Retribution(?) n - 5.10 and George led Double Chin - 5.5 and we all took runs on them. Both were great in their own ways. Then we walked down and did Pa De Du (?) and City Lights. I led the former and will say it is full value Gunks 5.8! The first 40 or so feet is technical and it is sustained most of the way up. Bob led City Lights, and did a smooth job on the start. I did it this spring an that start is sure polished. George was getting tired at 3pm so we called it a day, but it was a good one.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2013, 04:13:09 PM by Admin Al »
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Al Hospers
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Jeff

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2013, 06:45:09 AM »

Al, your French teacher and climbing partner wants to correct your spelling-- that's Pas de Deux 8)--and you did a great job leading it on sight!! I had 2 great days of climbing fun in the best fall weather you could ask for!
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sneoh

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2013, 07:43:50 AM »

Al, your French teacher and climbing partner wants to correct your spelling-- that's Pas de Deux 8)--and you did a great job leading it on sight!! I had 2 great days of climbing fun in the best fall weather you could ask for!
That is a GOOD climb with a little spice.  So different from its mor famous neighbor. 
PdD is definitely full value.  Congrats Al.
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JakeDatc

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2013, 10:44:06 AM »

Snookys is a great route.. i spent like 5 mins getting the courage to do a reachy move of what i'd call the crux. 

Next time you are near Never Never land you should lead Absurdland.. great route.

We watched a girl try to follow Disneyland while doing Te Dum..  we finished the route before she figured it out.. despite many attempts of beta... get out of the swimming pool.. throw a heel.. etc        I also led it in one pitch with long slings on everything,  the belay spot is really small anyway.   the walk off would have taken less time than rapping haha
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Admin Al

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Re: George and Al's good adventure.
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2013, 09:27:26 PM »

ThnX for everyone's encouragement. yes I would say that PdD (LOL) is definitely full value, and so is Snooky's IMO. kudos to Jeff Lea for V3. that's also no throw away. I also did Bloody Mary on Sunday, which has some interesting situations on P1. George led P2 & it was great and a bit run out above the roof. we only had a little time this morning (Monday) before we left so we went to the Nears. George got in P1 of Layback and I did P1 of Grand Central, then it was time to head home after a wonderful trip. I'll try and post some pictures soon, tho there are already some on the NEClimbs FB page.

we're already planning for the spring trip...
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Al Hospers
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