General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct

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SA:
Just want to give kudos to whoever put the new 3/8 inch bolts on the 3rd belay of the Direct/Direct. I was up there today in surprisingly mild conditions, and it was nice to see secure anchors, rather than depending on those old pitons driven in somewhat rotten rock. I was also surprised to see the new bolt, just before the overlap, on the 4th pitch, replacing my old 1/4
bolt.

Glad to see the 3rd pitch is still the same, ( and hasn't fallen down yet).

strandman:
What kind of person would place such pitons ?   :D

strandman:
Just saw some recent postings about  P2 & P3 being 11B !!..um...

kenreville:
Nope. Not even close.

SA:
John,

As you know, pitch 2 can be pretty tough depending on finger size. My fat fingers barely get into the under-cling---definitely 10+ for me. My son's skinny fingers can get real deep into the crack--much easier for him.

Pitch 3 is still 10+--not in the 11 grade. It hasn't changed in 40+ years, and since I just got up it clean, a few weeks ago, it can't be 5.11---I don't climb that hard at 67.

Hope your feeling better.

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