Author Topic: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct  (Read 1276 times)

Offline SA

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Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« on: October 10, 2013, 09:36:04 PM »
Just want to give kudos to whoever put the new 3/8 inch bolts on the 3rd belay of the Direct/Direct. I was up there today in surprisingly mild conditions, and it was nice to see secure anchors, rather than depending on those old pitons driven in somewhat rotten rock. I was also surprised to see the new bolt, just before the overlap, on the 4th pitch, replacing my old 1/4
bolt.

Glad to see the 3rd pitch is still the same, ( and hasn't fallen down yet).

Offline strandman

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2013, 12:05:32 PM »
What kind of person would place such pitons ?   :D

Offline strandman

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2013, 10:23:57 AM »
Just saw some recent postings about  P2 & P3 being 11B !!..um...

Offline kenreville

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2013, 02:58:58 PM »
Nope. Not even close.

Offline SA

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2013, 08:17:54 AM »
John,

As you know, pitch 2 can be pretty tough depending on finger size. My fat fingers barely get into the under-cling---definitely 10+ for me. My son's skinny fingers can get real deep into the crack--much easier for him.

Pitch 3 is still 10+--not in the 11 grade. It hasn't changed in 40+ years, and since I just got up it clean, a few weeks ago, it can't be 5.11---I don't climb that hard at 67.

Hope your feeling better.

Offline strandman

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2013, 10:59:57 AM »
DD has always been my standard for NH 10+

Offline kenreville

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2013, 10:05:36 PM »
That's about right.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2013, 06:29:36 AM »
And most folks know that 10+ is some kind of 11  with sport rateings ;) Is it harder than Duet Direct?

Offline strandman

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #8 on: October 25, 2013, 12:55:01 PM »
Diff for sure..but both 10C/+   Of course Camber used to be 10+ and Budapest as well (now 11B and 11D)

Offline kenreville

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2013, 08:51:00 PM »
Which are just about right as well.

Offline strandman

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2013, 05:40:36 PM »
What about the pins ???

Offline kenreville

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Re: Replaced bolts on the VMC Direct/Direct
« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2013, 09:12:38 PM »
Screw the pins. If ya can't fish in a nut or two, then run the bitch out.

Otherwise, go home. And grow some nuts.  ;D