General > Rock Climbing: Trad

Bound to happen....

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Just didn't think it would be on a 5.4...... Had a stuck rope! Went to Sundown today with my wife, stepdaughter,  and a guy from the meetup group my wife has gotten involved with. I led Rock Garden and lowered. My stepdaughter followed and cleaned it (she's 12) and while lowering both strands of the rope ended up in a crack at the top with her strand on top. She's maybe 100 pounds fully clothed and soaking wet and essentially got stuck right above the roof to the left of the route. She could only climb up about 10 feet before my wife couldn't pull any rope to belay..... She was on a good ledge though. Pulled my shoes back on and a prussic off my harness and back up I went. Got to the chimney and was able to flip the rope out of the crack so she could finish lowering. Sheesh. Just glad I have kept a couple loops with me all year.

Also did When Dad's Run Free and looked at Stilletto for next time.

Oh, the anchor tat on the top of Rock Garden was completely gone when I got to the top. I improvised with what I had on me and put good tat on when we cleaned. I didn't go fully prepared for some reason, but there's now webbing, a quicklink and a spare bail biner on the tree- that's all I had that I wanted to leave.... I did notice the anchors on the next route to the right had some cord on them that didn't look like much more than accessory cord. If anyone does that route, some quicklinks would be useful to leave in place.


--- Quote from: danf on October 20, 2013, 05:59:47 pm --- and a guy from the meetup group my wife has gotten involved with.

--- End quote ---
Based off that line I am guessing you didn't notice your wife was trying to off you. The "stuck rope" was a dodged a bullet brother. your

LOL!  I'll watch my back, thanks!  Though I don't know why she'd be trying to off me at this point, there's no life insurance to collect right now!

That route is a real tricky one to set a TR on without the ropes loading on top of each other... I know exactly where they pinched!

I have set a directional #2 up high and right just before topping out. 2 independent biners on a shoulder length sling keep both strands right in the middle of the two rope eating cracks that got you.

Glad you knew how to go up and fix the situation! A gri-gri here makes it a bit faster and easier than a prussik, as you can kind of self-belay/solo up the belay side of the rope, but your solution worked... though protecting yourself with just a single prussik is a bit risk-kay :)

My wife was belaying my stepdaughter and held the belay the entire time.  Had it been any more difficult of a route I probably would have been more concerned about a single prussic if I fell, but I felt solid on this route.

If/when we do this again, I'll have to remember to look for the directional placement for the TR.  Thanks.


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