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Author Topic: Bound to happen....  (Read 631 times)

danf

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Bound to happen....
« on: October 20, 2013, 05:59:47 PM »

Just didn't think it would be on a 5.4...... Had a stuck rope! Went to Sundown today with my wife, stepdaughter,  and a guy from the meetup group my wife has gotten involved with. I led Rock Garden and lowered. My stepdaughter followed and cleaned it (she's 12) and while lowering both strands of the rope ended up in a crack at the top with her strand on top. She's maybe 100 pounds fully clothed and soaking wet and essentially got stuck right above the roof to the left of the route. She could only climb up about 10 feet before my wife couldn't pull any rope to belay..... She was on a good ledge though. Pulled my shoes back on and a prussic off my harness and back up I went. Got to the chimney and was able to flip the rope out of the crack so she could finish lowering. Sheesh. Just glad I have kept a couple loops with me all year.

Also did When Dad's Run Free and looked at Stilletto for next time.

Oh, the anchor tat on the top of Rock Garden was completely gone when I got to the top. I improvised with what I had on me and put good tat on when we cleaned. I didn't go fully prepared for some reason, but there's now webbing, a quicklink and a spare bail biner on the tree- that's all I had that I wanted to leave.... I did notice the anchors on the next route to the right had some cord on them that didn't look like much more than accessory cord. If anyone does that route, some quicklinks would be useful to leave in place.
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ELM

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2013, 06:05:06 PM »

and a guy from the meetup group my wife has gotten involved with.
Based off that line I am guessing you didn't notice your wife was trying to off you. The "stuck rope" was a set-up....you dodged a bullet brother. :o....watch your back.lol
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Ed Matt
" I release my attention: because of you now I am in danger!!! " -Champ

danf

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2013, 06:29:41 PM »

LOL!  I'll watch my back, thanks!  Though I don't know why she'd be trying to off me at this point, there's no life insurance to collect right now!
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DLottmann

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2013, 09:21:35 PM »

That route is a real tricky one to set a TR on without the ropes loading on top of each other... I know exactly where they pinched!

I have set a directional #2 up high and right just before topping out. 2 independent biners on a shoulder length sling keep both strands right in the middle of the two rope eating cracks that got you.

Glad you knew how to go up and fix the situation! A gri-gri here makes it a bit faster and easier than a prussik, as you can kind of self-belay/solo up the belay side of the rope, but your solution worked... though protecting yourself with just a single prussik is a bit risk-kay :)
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danf

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2013, 09:29:20 PM »

My wife was belaying my stepdaughter and held the belay the entire time.  Had it been any more difficult of a route I probably would have been more concerned about a single prussic if I fell, but I felt solid on this route.

If/when we do this again, I'll have to remember to look for the directional placement for the TR.  Thanks.
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DLottmann

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2013, 09:44:34 PM »

No prob. The Gri-gri would have made descending a bit easier after the fix. Did you “down-prussik” the route after fixing the jam?
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danf

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2013, 07:41:11 PM »

No, I placed a nut under the block on the left side of the chimney and anchored into that while my wife lowered my stepdaughter. I think the nut was the most bomber nut I've placed so far- it took my wife almost 5 minutes to get it out later. After my stepdaughter was down and untied I rigged my ATC, untied the prussic and unclipped from the nut then rapped on both strands. I probably would have anchored into more than a single nut if I'd remembered to take the rest of the rack up with me or if I'd thought to get the .75 cam from Indigo on the way up....
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old_school

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Re: Bound to happen....
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2013, 01:12:01 PM »


Based off that line I am guessing you didn't notice your wife was trying to off you. The "stuck rope" was a set-up....you dodged a bullet brother. :o....watch your back.lol

lmao...  ;D
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."
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