Author Topic: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner  (Read 364 times)

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1596
A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner
« on: September 30, 2014, 04:07:50 AM »
This Sunday I finally got back to finishing the finger crack Steady Yeti 11b. It is located at the NE Crags, just left of the Bigfoot Arete . After about a year I broke out my new rope and Amy Colburn belayed me up it and seconded. Thanks for those politely leaving it for me to finish. It is now open for business and I recommend it. It is about 90 feet tall and after an initially crumbly start (stick clip the lone bolt) the rock firms right up and offers lots of good jamming with great gear. There is a crux section about 2/3s of the way up where the crack arches right that will require some good footwork. The route shares the bolted anchor of Bigfoot. 11b is a guess. Some have suggested c, but it feels easier than that knowing the route. It awaits a consensus on-sight grade http://www.mountainproject.com/v/steady-yeti/109528832



Also, a couple of weekends ago, at the Beanstalk Wall, part of the NE crags, I, Tom Bowker and Jay Lena finished a nice layback corner up to a hand crack, with a tricky crux section past a roof connecting them. It goes at about 5.9. For lack of another name, I am calling it the Wiessner Corner. The initial corner is probably about 5.7. Amy Coulburn is cleaning a crack to the right of it. The link up of the corner to the top of her route will probably result in a great 5.8, just what the wall needs. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wiesner-corner/109528953


the start of the route before it was fully cleaned.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2014, 02:04:47 PM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7178
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiesner Corner
« Reply #1 on: September 30, 2014, 06:19:23 AM »
Very nice...
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

Offline slacker

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiesner Corner
« Reply #2 on: September 30, 2014, 06:40:06 AM »
Mark,

I finally went out there on Sat.  It is a great place and we almost had it to ourselves.  Your hand crack on the bean stalk wall in one of the best for the grade that I have done!!! :D   The other 2 cracks to the left were also very good.  The corner is amazing but not clean to the level of your other route.  I attempted to climb the crack to the right of the corner.  It was very good gear thankfully, because I underestimated how dirty the route was.  Both these routes will be classic once cleaner!! 

Thank you for all of your efforts and discovering such  a gem in the woods...   I look forward to many more trips this fall

Matt

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1596
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiesner Corner
« Reply #3 on: September 30, 2014, 08:51:38 AM »
Thanks, Matt. I noticed fresh chalk on a bunch of the routes Sunday, so figured people had been out the day before.  Noticed chalk on the bottom of Squeeze Box. Hope you got on Happy Camper. That is one not to miss. Was that you on Bigfoot? Yeah, I want to do a little more cleaning on the corner, but am waiting until Amy is done with the rough cleaning of her route, since it blows over. Her route had only the the rough trundling and cursory cleaning done when you were on it, enough to see if it would be a good route before I put the anchors in. She did a bunch of cleaning Sunday and Monday, but it probably needs another day or two before it is ready. The train track looking cracks to the left of the corner I had only done a rough cleaning on too. You were actually able to lead that? That must have been dicey trusting gear in those flared cracks still covered with dirt. I cleaned a bunch more yesterday, but still need another day before I think it will be ready to lead. Probably another nice 9 when all clean, but a little more tricky to protect then the others. I have a nice long hard project on the right side of the Beanstalk wall that might be 4 stars. Might have to put a red tag on that one once I get the bolts in  ;) It is going to take a while to get that all cleaned, since it is so long.
« Last Edit: September 30, 2014, 08:55:29 AM by M_Sprague »
"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline M_Sprague

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1596
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2014, 04:18:07 PM »
Photo of the FA of Steady Yeti by my attentive belayer  ;)

"Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is not a path and leave a trail."

-Ralph Waldo Emerson

Offline slacker

  • NEClimbs Junior Member
  • **
  • Posts: 92
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner
« Reply #5 on: October 01, 2014, 05:08:48 PM »
Mark,

I did not get on squeeze box YET!  Looks really good.  I tried to climb the route to the right of Weisners corner.  The one that starts in an offwidth.  It is a very cool feature.   I convinced myself that it would become cleaner the higher I climbed.  Well it turns out that when the angle eases, right before the anchor the dirt and grass were full on.  The train track route looks really good as well but I have not got on it. 

There was another party out there that day and they climbed over by the offwidth.  We stayed on the beanstalk wall.  We did see your rope hanging on the project.  It will be another great addition for sure.  Thanks for all of your hard work out there. :)  The new approach is great.

Matt

Offline crazyt

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 133
  • whatever
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2014, 09:33:53 AM »
The quality of the climbing in this area never ceases to amaze me.
work hard, play harder

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4712
Re: A couple more lines at Greens: Steady Yeti and Wiessner Corner
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2014, 12:26:53 PM »
Main cliff is even better quality rock...of course most routes are harder  or projects