Over the past few months a few brave souls have been putting in a massive effort to clean this area up! Its a great place to get in a few quick pitches and easily set up top ropes.
We have cleaned:
Broken Bones 5.10c R and replaced the bolt
Sticks and Stones (Whack-A-Mole) 5.11a R/X and replaced the bolt
We also got some history out of the efforts!
Maid in the Shade (Slings and Arrows in the guide) 5.9+ a new bolt will be in soon! History FA: Loran Smith 1986 (formerly unknown in the guidebook)
Loran Smith had also climbed the route to the right of AP Treat, (By the Way in Handrens Guide) in 1986 naming it Welton's Corner in honor of his father who passed away the week before.
Bob Ahearn unearthed a great 35' crack/flake route (On Crack 5.5-5.6 ). We looked in every guide book for the area and found no recorded ascents.
FRA: Bob Ahearn.
I also cleaned a untouched section of cliff to the left of On Crack and right of Energy Crises. It turned out to be a great addition to this area and much safer than its neighbors. It starts in the same spot as On Crack.
Start up a 10' right facing corner to a small ledge/stance. Place gear high in the right arching right facing corner. Pull straight onto the face (5.
and surmount the bulge to a stance (bolt). Climb up a short slab to the base of the headwall (bolt). Finesse your way up the sustained crux headwall on thin holds past a third bolt, and mantle onto a sloping ledge to clip the bolt anchor. 60'
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Jason Denver & Jonathan Baldassare