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Author Topic: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!  (Read 321 times)

Chinos

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New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« on: August 02, 2014, 08:43:49 AM »

Over the past few months a few brave souls have been putting in a massive effort to clean this area up! Its a great place to get in a few quick pitches and easily set up top ropes.
We have cleaned:

Broken Bones 5.10c R and replaced the bolt

Sticks and Stones (Whack-A-Mole) 5.11a R/X and replaced the bolt

We also got some history out of the efforts!

Maid in the Shade (Slings and Arrows in the guide) 5.9+ a new bolt will be in soon! History FA: Loran Smith 1986 (formerly unknown in the guidebook)

Loran Smith had also climbed the route to the right of AP Treat, (By the Way in Handrens Guide) in 1986 naming it Welton's Corner in honor of his father who passed away the week before.

Bob Ahearn unearthed a great 35' crack/flake route (On Crack 5.5-5.6 ). We looked in every guide book for the area and found no recorded ascents.
FRA: Bob Ahearn.

I also cleaned a untouched section of cliff to the left of On Crack and right of Energy Crises. It turned out to be a great addition to this area and much safer than its neighbors. It starts in the same spot as On Crack.

EFFIGY  5.11b
Start up a 10' right facing corner to a small ledge/stance. Place gear high in the right arching right facing corner. Pull straight onto the face (5.8) and surmount the bulge to a stance (bolt). Climb up a short slab to the base of the headwall (bolt). Finesse your way up the sustained crux headwall on thin holds past a third bolt, and mantle onto a sloping ledge to clip the bolt anchor. 60'
FA: Jonathan Garlough, Jason Denver & Jonathan Baldassare

« Last Edit: August 02, 2014, 08:49:00 AM by Chinos »
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Admin Al

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2014, 08:52:46 AM »

Very cool Jonathan, and yes it's a nice addition. I've climbed AP Treat, Bob's crack and Weltons all several times this summer and found hem satisfying. I even threw a TR on Sticks and Stones and enjoyed that as well.  On a TR it really not a flail. ;-) I'll have to try the others soon, on TR of course...

Well done...
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Chinos

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2014, 07:44:56 AM »

Nice Al,
When clean these routes have real high quality rock. i hope that people will climb them more to help keep them clean!

I led Sticks and Stones last night and am glad I didn't flail! what a nice line tho. I highly recommend it as a TR for people to work on their slab technique.
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ELM

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2014, 07:53:23 AM »

We did a TR on that a month or so ago having no idea what it was. The focus needed for me to climb it was something I had never experianced...really mentally exhausting. But it's 3 grades above the hardest I usually climb so that makes sense I guess.  ;D
« Last Edit: August 03, 2014, 07:56:28 AM by ELM »
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strandman

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2014, 10:48:05 AM »

Nice Al,
When clean these routes have real high quality rock. i hope that people will climb them more to help keep them clean!

I led Sticks and Stones last night and am glad I didn't flail! what a nice line tho. I highly recommend it as a TR for people to work on their slab technique.

Nice job...i got some other ideas for you  8)
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Chinos

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2014, 03:08:06 PM »

trying to hit the slabs, gearing up for the captain! almost that time of year! We want to hit the slab section hard this fall. I also want to get back out and rebolt black flies!

what others do you have in mind?!
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strandman

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2014, 04:01:01 PM »

California Girls for . sure...Body Surfing..tremendous.....maybe 2nd ascent of Auto clave ? it's only been 25 years  ::)
« Last Edit: August 03, 2014, 08:54:08 PM by strandman »
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Chinos

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2014, 10:22:08 PM »

i actually went up and checked out cali girls tonight, looks great! need this humidity to end first
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Smear

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #8 on: August 04, 2014, 07:28:20 AM »

Nice job on that lead Jon!
I wish I was there to see it...I think ( may have made my hands sweaty watching) 
At least you cleared a runway for the belayer,just in case   :o
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mopowers

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2014, 10:54:57 AM »

trying to hit the slabs, gearing up for the captain! almost that time of year! We want to hit the slab section hard this fall. I also want to get back out and rebolt black flies!

what others do you have in mind?!

Slabs... i have some recommendations for ya! You like to live dangerously? Been to Wheeler or Owls Head? I have been busy retro bolting many of the classic scare-fests at Wheeler so you better hurry.

How is it you have not discovered Owls Head? I will never understand how Strandman left that place untouched. Far and away the biggest, hardest and best slabs around. Now that i am a dad i dont take the chances i used to but i would be psyched to follow you. There is also lots of well bolted slabs there too.

Hit me up sometime if you want a tick list or partner.
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strandman

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Re: New Routes in the AP Treat Area at Cathedral!
« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2014, 12:06:21 PM »

I was always afraid of the cows at the base......The Duval crew seemed to have the place locked up.
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