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Author Topic: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall  (Read 1338 times)

ELM

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Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« on: October 24, 2013, 08:58:02 PM »

    This climb is right between "Easy as Pudding Pie" and "Yellowjacket".

-To the right of yellowjacket there is a small diameter 2' high tree stump 2-3' to the right of that:
Climb up to a left down facing seam for a nut placement.
-Head straight up to the first bolt; past two more bolts straight up. The crux is at the third bolt.
-Pad up the remaining 15' to a two bolt ring anchor.
 
The climb is roughtly the same height as yellowjacket; 90'. FFA: David Giampietro and Ed Matt 10-24-13.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2013, 07:09:20 PM by ELM »
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David_G48

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2013, 05:29:01 AM »

A little background on the name; we started climbing on a beautiful Autumn day and as we started climbing the route for the FA small tear drops of cold rain started down from the now overcast dark skies above. Now we have a 5.4 Easy as Instant Pudding, 5.6 Autumn Tears, 5.7 Yellowjacket, 5.10 Put My Foot Where and 5.10B Lost & Found all within the first 100' of the Geriatric wall. Great area to take small groups of various skill levels for a bunch of fun climbs. For that matter continue down the wall for more great routes most which have been put up in the last few recent years and of course by the over 60 crowd  ;).
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Admin Al

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2013, 09:57:15 AM »

Very neat David... any pictures?
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Al Hospers
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ELM

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #3 on: October 25, 2013, 01:09:41 PM »

Al..I have pics..I cannot seem to post them here using your picture icon. I will email them too you. The sun was setting on us so they get dark.
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chambo

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2013, 02:13:53 PM »

Thanks for putting in this new, fun, little line.  My wife and I went out and climbed it on Sunday morning.  We attempted to clean it up a bit more, but I would suggest that someone bring a wire brush out and give it another good scrub. 
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David_G48

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2013, 06:31:54 PM »

It was late and getting dark last week so we went out today and gave it some cleaning with a wire brush. Glad that you liked it, you will like it even more now that we have cleaned it up a bit.
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ELM

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2013, 08:32:57 PM »

Very happy you got on it!
We did more than just wire brush it. It's very clean right now. Still has the same feel but much more positive. In the pic: If you look off above the climbers left shoulder you can see the clean streak of rock trending left and up.
« Last Edit: October 30, 2013, 08:34:58 PM by ELM »
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Admin Al

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6? Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2013, 09:18:45 PM »

ThnX to both you and David for putting up another fun climb in the Geriatrics area. It's great to have this many fun climbs there.
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Al Hospers
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Pete Jackson

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2013, 12:49:53 PM »

Went out to try this one on Sunday, but it was one of the busiest spots on the cliff! Looks really nice, though. Ended up climbing over by Gaggle and Anniversary instead. By the time we headed back to Autumn Tears, it had started raining.

Looks like it was karma: now when we head up to climb it, it'll be shiny clean. Thanks!
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David_G48

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.6 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2013, 05:10:48 PM »

Today we put up a 2nd pitch for Autumn Tears, 5.9. It begins just right of the anchors at the top of the first pitch using the anchor bolt on the right as the 1st clip. Climb past 2 more bolts then some gear placement is needed. It ends at the rope anchor around the Juniper Tree.
First recorded free ascent George Hurley, David Giampietro, & Ed Matt Nov 6,2013.
The entire climb can be done in one pitch or broken up into 2 pitches with the 1st pitch going at 5.6 and the 2nd at 5.9. Bring 12 draws, a set of nuts, a 0 Metolius cam and a black tri-cam for the entire climb. Rap on one 60 meter rope. If you don't have a black tri-cam bring a #2 Camalot (I think) for a placement at the top.
It runs pretty straight from the bottom of the 1st pitch to the top of the second. Let us know how you enjoy it.
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ELM

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #10 on: November 13, 2013, 07:18:44 PM »

Some of you may note I changed the thread title to reflect that the climb is now a 5.9. That is to reflect the harder second pitch. Do not let the 5.9 scare you away; the first pitch to the ring anchors is a very nice 5.6 and a great climb in and of itself. The 5.9 portion is just the cherry on top...a hard fought....much flailing,fussing and resting.. cherry (for me).
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Admin Al

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #11 on: November 13, 2013, 08:44:32 PM »

nice... I'm hoping to get over there before winter totally settles in. unfortunately at this rate it may have actually settled!
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Al Hospers
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Admin Al

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2013, 04:35:02 PM »

I went out Thursday afternoon with Brad White and climbed it. I thought that the first pitch was a very nice 5.6. I did feel that there should be a last bolt between what is now currently the last bolt and the anchor. If you slip clipping the anchor, which requires you to step up on a small ledge, you are looking at a close-to 40' fall! I found pitch 2 to be significantly harder and all of 5.9. I had to hang a bit to figure it out. Brad found a variant where you stemmed out to the right into this wide crack which allowed you to make the move up and get situated on the face where you can clip the second bolt. It is reasonably clean and a nice addition to the area.
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Al Hospers
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David_G48

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #13 on: November 14, 2013, 04:53:54 PM »

Al
There is a place for a nut placement just below the 1st anchor before you step up to clip in. Then you can step down and remove the nut if you want. Thanks for getting on the route and providing some feedback esp. on the grading.
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ELM

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Re: Autumn Tears 5.9 Humphreys Ledge Geriatric wall
« Reply #14 on: November 14, 2013, 10:15:54 PM »

...I think you are speaking about after the third bolt to the anchor. We did debate adding a bolt there. But, it's relatively easy climbing and there is pro before you step up to clip the anchors. Is down and to the left.
    Brad found maybe the "easier" way but it's not much easier. Following just to the right of the bolt line works just fine. I did say it was burly!
   
   
« Last Edit: November 14, 2013, 10:20:22 PM by ELM »
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