Author Topic: fear and scary route  (Read 3460 times)

Offline Jeff

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 811
  • I love YaBB 1 Gold!
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #45 on: November 15, 2013, 05:40:31 PM »
Opening Pandora's box, if you can "sew it up with gear" between the bolts, why did it need the bolts? Just askin'! I've carried and placed gear on lots of "sport" climbs, even sometimes by passing the bolts. I understand and accept the bolts when there is no gear, but...  ;D Of course, I've been climbing since that's the only name we had for it ("climbing"), so I realize I'm a dinosaur 8). I'm OK with that. :-*

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4711
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #46 on: November 15, 2013, 05:58:52 PM »
Heres an example from CO..a f/a from the the 80's  stemmingwith gear then 2 bolts and finally thin crack to finish..nice climb 11+...over the years it gets retrobolted with 7 bolts ans still no one does it...just last week done in original form with the middle bolts
????

Is climbing this difficult ?

What if Airation was bolted ? 

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3887
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #47 on: November 15, 2013, 06:37:09 PM »
Place as much gear as you want . I have no problem with that. What I find somewhat amuseing is the trad bumbly who trash talks sport climbing but is not brave enough to do certain sport climbs without cheater gear between the bolts yet all those wimpy chicken liver sport climbers do not seem to have any problems climbing through to the next bolt.

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2082
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #48 on: November 15, 2013, 07:33:28 PM »
Airation would see about 50+ ascents on a nice weekend if it were bolted, but having it bolted would change its character significantly, if not spoil it for eternity.

To be fair, plenty of chicken shit climbers in both sport and trad.  Shit, I count myself as a member, have been since 1993. 

I led NMD on trad gear and the one original expansion bolt in '95 or '96.  I think I placed one fewer piece than the number of lower bolts. I have also eyed and TR'ed the direct start for a number of years.  By my fuzzy memory, it goes at about the same grade but solid gear placements in the granular horizontals up the nice steep face may prove challenging and far in-between.  It probably been led this way though.  Lots of good climbers out there who care not of the "profound" differences between trad and sport. :)
« Last Edit: November 15, 2013, 07:35:17 PM by sneoh »

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3887
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #49 on: November 15, 2013, 07:59:28 PM »
Nothing wrong with being chicken liver ;D helps you reach old age in one piece....  I am a huge chicken as soon as it gets scary...   Its the part about putting down  a style of climbing that you are not brave enough to do :-*

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2082
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #50 on: November 15, 2013, 08:07:01 PM »
Nothing wrong with being chicken liver ;D helps you reach old age in one piece....
Amen to that.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1564
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #51 on: November 15, 2013, 09:04:24 PM »
"When you are scare, you can't concentrate as much as when your mind is relax."
If you let the fear take over, then ye,s but most people (myself included) concentrate better when there is a little fear.
It is a fine line and everyone is a little or even quite diferent.
I guess that is exactly the point and any attempt to over-generalize or over-simplify emotions and motivation is fool's errand.

maybe scary and stress is not the same. Being chalenge is interesting, commitment, adventure. But if there is a danger, I am not scare, I don't climb. If I decide that I can do the move, I do it...and I know that I can fall.

Offline Pete Jackson

  • NEClimbs Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 231
  • RCA guy. Want to help? PM me.
    • Rumney Climbers Association
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #52 on: November 16, 2013, 05:33:45 PM »
But if there is a danger, I am not scare, I don't climb. If I decide that I can do the move, I do it...and I know that I can fall.

That makes sense. Confidence is an important part of making committing moves. One can be scared but still be confident and come through it ok. Most climbers fall once self-doubt enters the equation.
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline Admin Al

  • NEClimbs Administrator
  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 7178
  • Climb 'till your forearms turn to jelly!
    • NEClimbs
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #53 on: November 17, 2013, 08:12:22 AM »
Most climbers fall once self-doubt enters the equation.

 +++
Al Hospers
____________________________________
my music
 https://www.facebook.com/BlackMountainRamblers

web hosting, design and software programming:
 http://www.cambersoft.com

Offline lucky luke

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 1564
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #54 on: November 17, 2013, 04:03:58 PM »
One can be scared but still be confident and come through it ok.
agree,

Psychological pro: you are scare as s@$#, you know that the pro won't hold you body weight, but you place it just to be able to relax and think that you are not going so far.

I am scare to be confident ;D

Offline perswig

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 847
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #55 on: November 17, 2013, 07:34:33 PM »
I am scare to be confident ;D

I'm confident I'll be scared.
Dale
If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

Offline strandman

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 4711
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #56 on: November 17, 2013, 09:13:38 PM »
confiidence in climbing is a mixture of blind faith, cockiness and dumb luck..with a dash of "why not"

Offline sneoh

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 2082
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #57 on: November 17, 2013, 10:10:39 PM »
confidence in climbing is a mixture of blind faith, cockiness and dumb luck..with a dash of "why not"
+1.  And experience contributes favorably to "blind faith" and "cockiness".

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline steve weitzler

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 448
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #58 on: November 18, 2013, 07:37:47 AM »
Place as much gear as you want . I have no problem with that. What I find somewhat amuseing is the trad bumbly who trash talks sport climbing but is not brave enough to do certain sport climbs without cheater gear between the bolts yet all those wimpy chicken liver sport climbers do not seem to have any problems climbing through to the next bolt.

How is placing gear between bolts cheating? As a climber of about 40 years, if I can gear in I will sport, trad, ice doesn't matter.  The idea is to live and climb tomorrow. If you wnat to be bold and dead feel free. I'd rather be a living trad bumbly drinking in the bar at the end of the day. Just sayin' ;D ;D ;D

Offline tradmanclimbz

  • NEClimbs God
  • *****
  • Posts: 3887
  • Nick Goldsmith
Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #59 on: November 18, 2013, 08:00:03 AM »
The sport climbs are set up as a challange in skill and bravery. The challenge is to be skilled, strong and brave enough to climb from bolt to bolt without resting on gear or adding gear. Simply clip and go. It is perfectly fine to add  gear to the sport climb if you are not strong and brave enough to climb it as it was designed but by doing so you have lost the right to bitch about sport climbing being neither.