Author Topic: fear and scary route  (Read 3243 times)

Offline lucky luke

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fear and scary route
« on: November 03, 2013, 10:02:50 AM »
Quote
"fear is the root of many climber's limitations [...] in sport climbing, the focus is not on the protection of the route, but rather, the physical movement and strength of climber.[...] On most sport route, there is little realistic fear of injury [...]Closer examination may indicate that it is really of being out of control"

blah...blah, blah...blah, blah, blah.

and suddenly one understand that he can kill himself

I don't know the theory of falling, I climb hard on sport...the rock is bad, we must place bolt to allow uninform people who like ignorance to climb hard  to have access to a 5.6x route.

The quote is from climbing your best. Training to maximize your performance. by Heather Reynolds Sagar. As I learned a lot about safety, and I climbed with Base, a pillar on safety and trad climbing, I can concentrate on hard trad move.   

   

Offline JBrochu

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2013, 11:04:03 AM »
Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2013, 11:40:05 AM »
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

DLottmann

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2013, 03:35:11 PM »
another worthless post...



I did use it to learn how to insert animated gif's... so thanks for that I guess.

Offline DaveR

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2013, 08:04:42 PM »
Now you have me laughing!  :)

Offline krankonthis

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2013, 02:00:14 PM »
I like daffy the best. just keep feeding the geese LL.

Offline kenreville

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #6 on: November 04, 2013, 04:39:43 PM »
"As I learned a lot about safety, and I climbed with Base, a pillar on safety and trad climbing, I can concentrate on hard trad move."

WTF does this discombobulated abortion of a sentence mean?

For all your "trad" bravado LL, you still ain't shit till you solo that scary route.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2013, 04:44:54 PM by kenreville »

Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #7 on: November 04, 2013, 08:04:48 PM »
"As I learned a lot about safety, and I climbed with Base, a pillar on safety and trad climbing, I can concentrate on hard trad move."
I think he might have meant "Base, a pillar of strength in safety and trad climbing".    Just a guess.
Base is a hoot to be around; haven't seen him in years. Maybe spending moat of his time tutoring LL/Champ. :)

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline kenreville

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #8 on: November 04, 2013, 08:08:12 PM »
Well to that I say- big deal. Anyone who's climbed in NH over the last 30 years has climbed with Base.  ::)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2013, 06:51:06 PM »
"As I learned a lot about safety, and I climbed with Base, a pillar on safety and trad climbing, I can concentrate on hard trad move."
I think he might have meant "Base, a pillar of strength in safety and trad climbing".    Just a guess.
Base is a hoot to be around; haven't seen him in years. Maybe spending moat of his time tutoring LL/Champ. :)

I most admit, I am still learning from him...and he is a great partner in the cliff.


Offline mopowers

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2013, 07:32:28 PM »
Hey Luke, If you climb with Base then i believe we have met. You were such a polite guy.

Base has fully embraced rap bolting and has established well over a dozen sport pitches in the last few years. What are your thoughts on this?

DLottmann

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #11 on: November 05, 2013, 07:43:22 PM »
Hey Luke, If you climb with Base then i believe we have met. You were such a polite guy.

Base has fully embraced rap bolting and has established well over a dozen sport pitches in the last few years. What are your thoughts on this?

Iíve met him twice. Super nice guy in person. Crazy online (I know 3 others that can vouch for how different he is in person)

And while I am answering for him, I donít think itís bolts he is against... heís just against ďsport mentalityĒ...

and bouldering before you learn to trad climb...

and bringing compasses into the mountains...

and reading avalanche bulletins...

and not understanding the finer principles of hemp...

Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #12 on: November 05, 2013, 11:56:41 PM »
Base has fully embraced rap bolting and has established well over a dozen sport pitches in the last few years.
Really?  I AM surprised by this.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline Admin Al

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2013, 06:26:23 AM »
Base has fully embraced rap bolting and has established well over a dozen sport pitches in the last few years. What are your thoughts on this?

Is this at Owls?
Al Hospers
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Offline slacker

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2013, 07:02:47 AM »
Ya Al...   He has put up quite a few over at Owls.  There is one that I have done with Mopowers that was a sweet 4 pitch 10c?
As I remember though it was a rap bolted route it is still quite sporty!!!