"fear is the root of many climber's limitations [...] in sport climbing, the focus is not on the protection of the route, but rather, the physical movement and strength of climber.[...] On most sport route, there is little realistic fear of injury [...]Closer examination may indicate that it is really of being out of control"
blah...blah, blah...blah, blah, blah.
and suddenly one understand that he can kill himself
I don't know the theory of falling, I climb hard on sport...the rock is bad, we must place bolt to allow uninform people who like ignorance to climb hard to have access to a 5.6x route.
The quote is from climbing your best. Training to maximize your performance. by Heather Reynolds Sagar. As I learned a lot about safety, and I climbed with Base, a pillar on safety and trad climbing, I can concentrate on hard trad move.