Author Topic: fear and scary route  (Read 3508 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #75 on: November 18, 2013, 06:16:33 PM »
You guys seem to be missing the point. If the sport weinie climbs the route useing LESS gear than you  you have lost the right to bitch about what a wenie he or she is. You can still trash them if you like but it just makes you look old and weak.

Again I am NOT saying that you can not place as much gear as you want. Just saying that you look like a fool if you trash talk a sport weinie and then place twice as much gear as them to get up the same piece of rock.

« Last Edit: November 18, 2013, 06:20:48 PM by tradmanclimbz »

Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #76 on: November 18, 2013, 06:18:41 PM »
Was Skinner the first American to establish a .14 on home soil with Throwin' the Houlihan?
But as John said it is 'just' one of his many accomplishments in the world of climbing.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #77 on: November 18, 2013, 07:00:59 PM »
I’ve been sayin’ for years that “warm up falls” would really help my climbing. That book “The Rock Warriors Way” has some interesting exercises to “free up the mind” LOL...

Wish I was comfortable taking big whips... something I can definitely work on!

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #78 on: November 18, 2013, 07:07:33 PM »
I definitely feel more comfortable after i've fallen a few times...  i don't like to do it.  but when i'm working on something hard then it happens and you think about it less. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #79 on: November 18, 2013, 07:18:28 PM »
I would rather not fall. 

Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #80 on: November 18, 2013, 07:27:21 PM »
That book “The Rock Warriors Way” has some interesting exercises to “free up the mind” LOL...
Wish I was comfortable taking big whips... something I can definitely work on!
After watching numerous "kids" work hard routes, taking the whips, and then redpoint hard routes quickly, I know there is really something to the freeing the mind up method.  I have a mental block against it, always have.

Yeah, I could stand to work on taking the whip thing.  Even when I was working Social Outcast, possibly the safest sport climb to fall off from, I would take these weenie little falls during redpoint attempts.  No wonder it took me an embarassing number of tries to finally get it (tho only as a pink point).  LOL.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #81 on: November 18, 2013, 07:40:14 PM »
That book “The Rock Warriors Way” has some interesting exercises to “free up the mind” LOL...
Wish I was comfortable taking big whips... something I can definitely work on!
After watching numerous "kids" work hard routes, taking the whips, and then redpoint hard routes quickly, I know there is really something to the freeing the mind up method.  I have a mental block against it, always have.

Yeah, I could stand to work on taking the whip thing.  Even when I was working Social Outcast, possibly the safest sport climb to fall off from, I would take these weenie little falls during redpoint attempts.  No wonder it took me an embarassing number of tries to finally get it (tho only as a pink point).  LOL.


Yep..  social took me 2 burns on the day i sent it (2 others on different days)  the first i fell on the last bolt and i was really going for it so it was a decent fall..  the 2nd time felt as hard but i wasn't thinking about falling.    same with when i was working Things as they are now and  Curl up and fly..  shorter  falls but being able to commit to moves was important.    I went backwards on  Orangahang..  another really safe fall..  and i never fell.. i always took at the crux bolt until i sent it. 
"I really don't know who act like if he have the true." -Champoing

Offline strandman

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #82 on: November 18, 2013, 09:31:37 PM »
I can't ever rember taking more than maybe 8-10 falls on a route..and that was f/a's....established routes ???..maybe2-3 on Women in Love or  3-4 on Heather.....

Bit's N Pieces was around 10 trying to get a bolt in...Clean Sweep maybe 5 over 5 days

Offline lucky luke

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #83 on: November 18, 2013, 10:06:16 PM »
He climbed 13+ crack before he did 13+ sport   ;D  How did this happen  oh ya  also freed the Salathe Wall   kinda varied talent would you not say ?

It is astonishing to me too. One climb crack to +13 as a trad climber and sudently...he is a sport climber but there is no difference. Why did he begin to be a sport climber if there is no differences (if you look at the definition that I gave, if he work the crack from the top and know where to place his pro on top rope, he is not such a trad climber. As I heard about him, I know that he did many route bottom up as it was the style when just trad climbing exist.)

If you look at railroad track. At your feet, they are parrallele and they don't touch each other. If you look far away, you will see that the two rail join to make one. It is how many people look climbing without doing the difference, but there is a difference.

For a climber like your friend, it make not a lot of difference between sport and trad  because he can do both. When you climb with beginer, like I do, you will see very fast that they don't make the difference and they are not good at both.

Brave: One can have the distinguished service cross, a wife, two kid and don't want to take risk as he practice some exercises. For that person, doing sport climbing is very great because he can climb and the risk was pretty low. So the climber his brave, but he prefer some think softer.

As I don't have the same obligation, nor bravoure, I can take more risk and trad climbing is for me better. Note that if my skill is 5.4, I can climb at my limit and have the same pleasure as a climber of 5.13 who climb at his limit.


Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #84 on: November 18, 2013, 11:01:45 PM »
"For a climber like your friend, it make not a lot of difference between sport and trad  because he can do both."
Indeed Todd Skinner was exceptionally skilled in both.  But there are plenty of people around (even some on this board!) who are skilled in both.  I think we have been trying to tell you this for years now.  It is not quite as simple as trad or sport for everyone.  For the talented ones, it is trad and sport.  Maybe not truly exceptional at both but very good in both.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2013, 11:04:00 PM by sneoh »

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline lucky luke

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #85 on: November 18, 2013, 11:39:33 PM »
But there are plenty of people around (even some on this board!) who are skilled in both.  I think we have been trying to tell you this for years now.

Go at the north end practice slab and count the number of people who aid climb with one aider at a time, bouncing bad pro  in an A1 to gain confidence that it is as solid as a bolt. It is not fun.  Not that it is not an advance technique, but when you saw someone risking his life on 45 feet of rock, it is not fun. And I saw good training too. Long time ago, a guide was climbing with his client with, as safety,five pro  (when the student place a pro, the guide remove one from the bottom)...without danger.

When people died because the community don't want to make the distinction between sport and trad because some elite learned trad before learning sport and the industry attract people with trad and don't want to loose there client who other wise don't want to do sport... it is a high cost.

Offline sneoh

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #86 on: November 18, 2013, 11:57:17 PM »
There you go again.
Saying there are people, even many people, who are good at both is not the same as saying there is no difference between sport and trad.  Just because you are unwilling or unable to accept that people lesser known than the likes of Skinner can be good and safe at both, it does not make real-world evidence disappear. 

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline JakeDatc

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #87 on: November 19, 2013, 12:03:04 AM »
Must be sad to have such a pathetic view of the world...   

another 8 year old that climbs harder than champ ever will.   clips need work but that is probably because her hands are tiny. 
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/angie-scarth-johnson-turkey-slap-26-bardens-lookout-blue-mtns
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Offline Pete Jackson

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #88 on: November 19, 2013, 12:07:00 AM »
I am pretty sure we have enough material on this thread to write a bot that will argue every single side of the sport trad point to exhaustion. Then we can all go climbing!
We came to climb, not to whine.

Offline M_Sprague

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Re: fear and scary route
« Reply #89 on: November 19, 2013, 07:20:46 AM »
I think you may be on to something, Peter. Sometimes I think LL is a creation of Al's to keep the clicks up. He didn't quite get the algorithm correct and now it is stuck in a feedback loop.
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