Climbing Physics Puzzler

[JakeDatc]

If a strand gets cut then the whole thing fails.   clove hitch keeps it a closed system. 

this is the link the RC.com thread  but all of the inline pictures got messed up when RC did away with them so the thread is kinda stupid now.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1306133;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

[DLottmann]

I must not be picturing this correctly then. If you clip the sling to both bolts and make your magic ask how does one Clovehitch at one of the bolts make it redundant?

[JakeDatc]

Maybe i remembered the setup wrong.   the whole thing hurt my brain so i went back to my usual stuff..   maybe it only works if the piece blows out not the sling gets cut. 

[lucky luke]

The interminable effing discussions of whether this piece is good to 9kN while that was good to 10kN so it's better, blah, blah, blah.

I am surprise that they don't talked about the use of a gri gri on the belay!!!.

[frik]

For this to be a real physics "problem", you have to add a caveat like...
Assume the relationship of cord stretch to cord length is linear.

[DGoguen]

Hey Luke
I think you are misquoting people above, unless Steve had a stroke.

[Bill]

Dave say it ain't true!

Jake had a brain cramp and Steve experienced a stroke.  I'm so damn confused!!!  I hope everyone recovers completely and quickly!  BTW are you doing any climbing these days Hikin' Jake?

[JakeDatc]

Not much Bill..  biking more..  should get to 3k miles this year     going back to school so time for going places is hard so biking is easier

[triguy]

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?

[Admin Al]

good discussion... FWIW I have a pre-made-up equalette that I use a lot. between that and a cordelette I feel pretty well covered.

[strandman]

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?

Belayer failure

[sneoh]

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?

Belayer failure

I agree with John.  Can get real nasty in a hurry.

[triguy]

Assuming the belayer can arrest the fall......my question still stands.

[strandman]

Since I don't use a cordalette, I would feel a bit more concerned about the gear..esp the top piece. Always belay through something helps as well..the top piece of gear, first one on the next pitch,etc  always. 

I can't imagine a 7mm cord in good shape failing however

[DLottmann]

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?

C. Scrambled Organs.

Seriously, a true factor 2 will break the climber's body. You'd almost wish the gear and cord failed.