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Author Topic: Climbing Physics Puzzler  (Read 1922 times)

JakeDatc

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #30 on: November 07, 2013, 12:17:29 PM »

If a strand gets cut then the whole thing fails.   clove hitch keeps it a closed system. 

this is the link the RC.com thread  but all of the inline pictures got messed up when RC did away with them so the thread is kinda stupid now.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1306133;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
« Last Edit: November 07, 2013, 12:23:24 PM by JakeDatc »
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DLottmann

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #31 on: November 07, 2013, 12:26:53 PM »

I must not be picturing this correctly then. If you clip the sling to both bolts and make your magic ask how does one Clovehitch at one of the bolts make it redundant?
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JakeDatc

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #32 on: November 07, 2013, 12:51:41 PM »

Maybe i remembered the setup wrong.   the whole thing hurt my brain so i went back to my usual stuff..   maybe it only works if the piece blows out not the sling gets cut. 
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lucky luke

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #33 on: November 07, 2013, 02:09:16 PM »

The interminable effing discussions of whether this piece is good to 9kN while that was good to 10kN so it's better, blah, blah, blah.

I am surprise that they don't talked about the use of a gri gri on the belay!!!.
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frik

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #34 on: November 07, 2013, 03:26:25 PM »

For this to be a real physics "problem", you have to add a caveat like...
Assume the relationship of cord stretch to cord length is linear.
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DGoguen

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #35 on: November 07, 2013, 03:34:05 PM »

Hey Luke
I think you are misquoting people above, unless Steve had a stroke.
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Bill

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #36 on: November 07, 2013, 09:15:50 PM »

Dave say it ain't true!

Jake had a brain cramp and Steve experienced a stroke.  I'm so damn confused!!!  I hope everyone recovers completely and quickly!  BTW are you doing any climbing these days Hikin' Jake?

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JakeDatc

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #37 on: November 07, 2013, 11:25:19 PM »

Not much Bill..  biking more..  should get to 3k miles this year :)    going back to school so time for going places is hard so biking is easier
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triguy

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #38 on: November 08, 2013, 08:00:50 AM »

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?
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Admin Al

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #39 on: November 08, 2013, 09:12:59 AM »

good discussion... FWIW I have a pre-made-up equalette that I use a lot. between that and a cordelette I feel pretty well covered.
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strandman

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #40 on: November 08, 2013, 10:48:16 AM »

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?
Belayer failure
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sneoh

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #41 on: November 08, 2013, 11:25:18 AM »

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?
Belayer failure
I agree with John.  Can get real nasty in a hurry.
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triguy

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #42 on: November 08, 2013, 11:48:09 AM »

Assuming the belayer can arrest the fall......my question still stands.
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strandman

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #43 on: November 08, 2013, 12:10:24 PM »

Since I don't use a cordalette, I would feel a bit more concerned about the gear..esp the top piece. Always belay through something helps as well..the top piece of gear, first one on the next pitch,etc  always. 

I can't imagine a 7mm cord in good shape failing however
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DLottmann

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Re: Climbing Physics Puzzler
« Reply #44 on: November 08, 2013, 12:33:48 PM »

Question: what is of bigger concern in a leader fall directly onto the belay - protection failure or sling/cordalette failure?

C. Scrambled Organs.

Seriously, a true factor 2 will break the climber's body. You'd almost wish the gear and cord failed.
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