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Author Topic: Huntington Ravine?  (Read 1173 times)

darwined

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Huntington Ravine?
« on: November 07, 2013, 06:38:22 AM »

Has Anyone been up in the ravine this week?  Thirty-seven degrees at the moment  :(  keeping my fingers crossed for COLD
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #1 on: November 07, 2013, 07:20:25 AM »

Temps are suppose to drop tonight. I'm going searching Sunday. I'll let you know what I find :)
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-Jeremy Ballou

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Admin Al

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #2 on: November 07, 2013, 03:06:54 PM »

spoke to the rangers this afternoon. nothing up there now, but maybe after the weekend... stay tuned.
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Al Hospers
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darwined

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #3 on: November 07, 2013, 07:13:23 PM »

spoke to the rangers this afternoon. nothing up there now, but maybe after the weekend... stay tuned.

Nathin'?  Sheee-it.
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pcooke

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2013, 11:54:16 AM »

Friends of mine climbed O'Dell's Saturday... thick enough for screws even.

Ice in Madison Gulf, and probably some in King Ravine as well. It's there, go get it!
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #5 on: November 11, 2013, 01:28:36 PM »

A friend an I hiked in to pinnacle on Sunday and weren't brave enough.... However we bumped into a team of 2 that were heading over there when we were hiking back down the fan. By the time we got to the biger boulders and looked back it appeared they were flaking the rope.... Don't know if they bagged it or not. If so good for them :)
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mechanicalchris

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #6 on: November 11, 2013, 02:43:15 PM »

Ice in Ammonoosuc yesterday.
« Last Edit: November 11, 2013, 05:48:47 PM by mechanicalchris »
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Admin Al

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #7 on: November 11, 2013, 05:36:04 PM »

it's been chilly up there, but not as cold as I would like for me to climb. I hate the hike up there on the bare & slightly snow covered boulders. that said there is ice to be climbed, and it's going to get better.
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goodrockrich

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2013, 07:47:27 PM »

I got a Facebook news feed that a group climbed Odells gully this weekend.   ;D
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tim03303

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2013, 08:41:39 PM »

We climbed Yale on Saturday.  The first pitch took 16cm the entire way.  After that it petered out and the snow involved thigh deep postholing and balling each step.  We climbed most of the way up the buttress to the south to avoid the snow.  Once the sky cleared around 8am; it was the most fantastic bluebird day I'd ever experienced on Washington.  Microspikes recommended for the approach/descent.
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angeloks

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2013, 08:29:08 AM »

We climbed Odell's Yesturday. Another party went for Pinnacle, but I don't think it's ready yet... Not to my taste ! Anyway, they did the first pitch and went for Odell's. A beautiful day out. Odell's was fat and plastic.















« Last Edit: November 22, 2013, 08:33:01 AM by angeloks »
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DLottmann

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2013, 01:34:42 PM »

Sweet, looks great.

Hope you're open to a little advice on your ice anchor.





1) Your outer angle is just a bit over 90 degrees. This greatly magnifies the force on each piece should the anchor see a heavy load. In general, it is much better to place ice screws in line vertically to greatly reduce these forces (Ice tends to fail/fracture on the horizontal_.

2) Using a "Magic-X" type of self-equalizes on a three-piece anchor like this greatly increases the amount of slack should one screw not hold. Better to pre-equalize or use something like the Quad in this situation.

Anchor was definitely "good enough"... just some food for thought...
« Last Edit: November 22, 2013, 01:37:53 PM by DMan »
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angeloks

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2013, 01:51:08 PM »

Sure thing ! Thanks for the advice. It's our second season, still plenty to learn... I usually try to keep a low angle between screws for the anchor. And most of the time I use a master knot to equalize with the sling. Is that what you mean by "Quad" ?
« Last Edit: November 22, 2013, 01:59:59 PM by angeloks »
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DLottmann

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2013, 05:46:54 PM »

Sure thing ! Thanks for the advice. It's our second season, still plenty to learn... I usually try to keep a low angle between screws for the anchor. And most of the time I use a master knot to equalize with the sling. Is that what you mean by "Quad" ?

Nah, the "Quad" is something from John Longs new anchor book. I personally don't use it. A master knot is good enough for me when the gear is solid. Experiment with placing your screws for ice anchors vertically... it makes a huge difference in overall strength and eliminates the whole angle issue...
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perswig

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Re: Huntington Ravine?
« Reply #14 on: November 23, 2013, 06:04:32 AM »

Thanks for the pics , Angeloks.  Looks like you had a banner bluebird day.
Color me jealous!

Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.
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