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two reasons to not sport climb before doing trad

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lucky luke:
I don't say don't do sport, I say do trad before sport if you want to be a trad climber.

first reason: In trad falling can be dangerous specially if the first pro pull out. Knowing how to fall on your feet will minimize the kind of injury that you will have. Falling in your back and you can be paralyze for the rest of your life. So, climbing on your feet and knowing how to place your body to jump or sleep safely is very important. Of course, you will feel more confident if you climb 5.9 before you do your first 5.6 lead in trad and, fortunately, the risk of falling is very low on that kind of route. But it is when you have to decide to do a move where there is a danger that you will learn all the process of being safe. After that, you will understand the progression: using your hips to protect vital part of the body, looking for a move using three point of contact before two points, understanding the difference between intermediate and advance move, using your power when one hold is missing, using your body in equilibrium as a single point of contact. I most say that sport climber learn by imitation of other and will learn technique adapt to a bolt protection situation. In general, sport climber don't make the distinction of being in control of his safety and using a bad technique for the problem. They will need bolt

second reason: a little bit technical, When you climb, you need energy. It is like someone who run. If you jog, you will use aerobic energy and will be able to perform for hours. If you played soccer, you will run faster and stop and go. There is a chance that you will be out of breath. Finally, in a 100 meter race, you will use a very fast kind of energy.  Those energy are call aerobic, anaerobic lactique and creatine phosphatase. When you climb on sport, you will use the second and third one mostly. In a trad route of 8 pitches, you will use more aerobic energy and in some places creatine  to climb a short hard section and anaerobic to look where you are going for the next hold. any other way to explain it?

DaveR:
Here we go again! Do you ever climb or just babble about worthless shit? :P

JBeta:
Luke, I appreciate your desire to back up your claim with reasons, but I think your reasons are flawed.

Reason 1: Everything I've learned about falling, I've learned while sport climbing. I've seen more trad climbers fall awkwardly than I've seen sport climbers fall awkwardly. In trad climbing, the "leader never falls" mentality is still alive and well, and when these leaders end up falling, as they inevitably do, the fall is often tense, stressful, and more dangerous than it needs to be. Sport climbing has taught me to make peace with the fall. Bouldering has taught me to fall with skill.

Reason 2: I'm a runner, and I know all about aerobic vs anaerobic. I've used more aerobic muscles during a sport climb than I ever have during trad climbing.  Have you ever sport climbed? Sure, some sport climbs are anaerobic, but some sport climbs are aerobic testpieces. Places like Rifle, Maple, and the Red have no really hard moves (that's debatable, I know), but it's the endurance requirements that make the climbs hard.

Sport climbing has made me more comfortable on the rock, and it has helped my trad climbing. In fact, every higher-end trad climber has put in mileage on sport climbs.

strandman:
Complete bullshit.... you can try to explain this all you want, but it will never work

JBeta:

--- Quote from: strandman on November 25, 2013, 03:14:22 PM ---Complete bullshit.... you can try to explain this all you want, but it will never work

--- End quote ---

Agreed...but I can't help myself from responding.

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