So many of us want to climb like Edlinger - an exquisite technical climber. Should we climb less like Edlinger and more like you to be "safe"? Perhaps you should post up a video of your fine trad techniques.
Patrick Edlinger, grimper, was my book before I go to bed. The book is so use, that I have to fix it to save it. His book was wrote by two post graduate teacher in France and he discuss all dimension of climbing. Particularly the psychological aspect.
he said: the only think that a beginner can imitate from and expert climber, it is to chalk his hand in the chalk bag (la seule chose que le debutant puisse mimer correctement est le trempage des doigts dans le sac a magnesie)
To progress he explain that the climber have to know how to be safe and to know how to master his emotion...after he will learn the economy of energy by learning a better technique.
To control your emotion, a bolt can be very safe. You are controlling one emotion: clipping the bolt before you fall. In trad, you have to control many other emotion and the presence of your partner is one of them. As a leader I have to evaluate my partner and bring it at a higher level or follow a better leader than me. Base, marc Chauvin, Sa, Joe Cote...are stongly better leader than me. They know all what I am writing, but maybe they can't put words on it to explain it. and maybe they will loose the attention of the people because some guy don't try to understand what is good for them and what it is not, but just challenge other people who bring new argument (control emotion with heuristical clue, short cut of the brain etc is new). A layback is still a layback. But one can place his feet at a place so there feet will slip first and an other as his hand will slip first. This will make all the difference between hurting your back and hurting your feet in a fall. If you don't understand my example, maybe it is better to ask question to understand than to criticize someone who try to put words on some thing less evident than a bolt to solve all the problem.