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Author Topic: Ice rack?  (Read 812 times)

goodrockrich

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Ice rack?
« on: November 25, 2013, 09:41:24 PM »

I'm looking to put together an ice rack.  Does any one have any suggestions on the number and size of the screws I should purchase?
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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2013, 08:49:23 AM »

ice screws mostly come in a mix of sizes ranging from 10cm, 16cm, 19cm and 22cm. [grin] In some ways the answer to your question is; "as many screws as you can afford". but to be more realistic here's my thoughts:

3 -   long ~22cm
10 - medium - a mix of 16 and 19 cm.
2 -   stubbies - 10 cm

you will always want to have at least 1 long screw on your harness to create a V-thread. the other 2 will be used for belays, wherever you can find a long screw placement. the mediums and shorts are for wherever is appropriate.

FWIW I know people who carry mostly 22cm screws, the idea being that you can always tie off a long screw. that's not my feeling, but YYMV depending on your experience.
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Al Hospers
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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2013, 08:51:38 AM »

RE placing ice screws - I was trying to find the original of this article, but I just foubd this version:

http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=095232e4-4caf-49ec-8495-9c9e00a633da

check it out, it's worth reading.
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Al Hospers
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goodrockrich

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2013, 09:14:22 AM »

Cool thanks!

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fresh

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2013, 11:33:51 AM »

BD actually makes 13cm screws as well, and this forms most of my rack. in good ice, they're just as strong as 16cm screws. they are lighter, and take slightly less time to place. some complain that they don't go deep enough into the good ice; as far as I'm concerned, if you aren't cleaning shitty ice off the surface to begin with, or aren't placing where the ice forms convexities, a 16cm screw won't help you :)
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ELM

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2013, 11:18:52 AM »

...dare I mention screamers?
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Admin Al

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2013, 11:24:45 AM »

Screamers, yes! I have 8 of them on my rack.
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Al Hospers
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M_Sprague

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2013, 12:33:16 PM »

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goodrockrich

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Re: Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2013, 04:31:40 PM »


This is certainly the type of ice I am going to be consuming this thanksgiving weekend. 8)

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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2013, 05:34:24 PM »

Now we know why it takes Al so long to declare a climb IN ;D It's all those long screws ;)
My standard ice rack.
3. 10cm
4. 13cm
3. 16cm
1. 19cm
1. 22 cm

For the Lake I add  3 more 16cm  to my standard rack unless it is febuary or march super sunny day in which case I trade out some of the shorter screws for 16cm and longer if they are available...

Tying off screws is REALLY BAD JU JU! much better off carrying shorter screws. they are just as bomber in good ice and give you so many more options in bad ice. Ever notice how you often hit air pockets with longer screws in free standing curtains. Next time that happens try a 13 or  10 and you might be supprised to find that you may get a solid placement in the outer layer without hitting air 8)
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slink

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #10 on: November 28, 2013, 06:44:59 AM »

 I am with Nick on this 13 and 16s. I rarely carry a 22 anymore except back country route without established rap routes. Remember ice pro is phsychological pro do not fall.
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neiceclimber

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #11 on: November 28, 2013, 07:59:44 AM »

You should be good to go on most routes with between 10-14 screws. I prefer bd turbos express, but in reality any coffee grinder type screw will work just fine. I prefer screws on the shorter side, but as a beginner I'd  buy mostly bd gold and blues and one or two of the biggest. I only carry one 22 and that's only if I know the route needs to be v threaded. Otherwise, if you really need to bail in good ice the blue will hold or sacrifice a screw.
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DLottmann

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #12 on: December 01, 2013, 11:37:00 PM »

I’m hoping to replace all my BD Express with the new Petzl screws which should hit stores in a week or two... but going off BD dimensions this is my ideal 10-screw rack (My OR rack carrier holds ten, and if I can’t do it with 10... well... I;m sure my partner has some screws I can borrow)

1 22cm for building v-threads (really this is super important IMO, may be used in anchor)
2 19cm for anchors (but only 1 per anchor, utilizing the 22 or a 15 situation dependant)
6 13cm for running pro (same thread count as BD 17cms, but lighter... you really shouldn’t be falling on ice climbing anyways)
1 10cm for that thin placement you can’t tie off

If I am climbing hard thin than hoping my parter has some 13cms, but for “normal” New England conditions I think my 10 screw spread is mint... YMMV
« Last Edit: December 02, 2013, 08:31:49 AM by DMan »
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #13 on: December 02, 2013, 06:04:28 AM »

Ahh. !13's are not thin ice pro they are standard ice pro. 10's are thin.
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goodrockrich

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #14 on: December 02, 2013, 08:20:26 AM »

I’m hoping to replace all my BD Express with the new Petzl screws which should hit stores in a week or two... but going off BD dimensions this is my ideal 10-screw rack (My OR rack carrier holds ten, and if I can’t do it with 10... well... I;m sure my partner has some screws I can borrow)

1 22cm for building v-threads (really this is super important IMO, may be used in anchor)
2 19cm for anchors (but only 1 per anchor, utilizing the 22 or a 15 situation dependant)
6 15cm for running pro (same thread count as BD 17cms, but lighter... you really shouldn’t be falling on ice climbing anyways)
1 13cm for that thin placement you can’t tie off

If I am climbing hard thin than hoping my parter has some 13cms, but for “normal” New England conditions I think my 10 screw spread is mint... YMMV
The link below might be some food for thought when choosing ice screw brands.  The food in this case would be deep dish pizza.  Any way I found this over at NEIce and though I would share it here as well.  Take it for what it is.  We don't climb concrete but still interesting.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013...echnology.html
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