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Author Topic: Ice rack?  (Read 1057 times)

DLottmann

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #15 on: December 02, 2013, 08:31:20 AM »


http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013...echnology.html

Link didn't work.

Tradman, yup, you're right, my numbers where all messed up. Editing now. Should be:

1 22cm for building v-threads (really this is super important IMO, may be used in anchor)
2 19cm for anchors (but only 1 per anchor, utilizing the 22 or a 15 situation dependent)
6 13cm for running pro (same thread count as BD 16cms, but lighter... you really shouldn’t be falling on ice climbing anyways)
1 10cm for that thin placement you can’t tie off
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goodrockrich

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #16 on: December 02, 2013, 08:36:38 AM »

I’m hoping to replace all my BD Express with the new Petzl screws which should hit stores in a week or two... but going off BD dimensions this is my ideal 10-screw rack (My OR rack carrier holds ten, and if I can’t do it with 10... well... I;m sure my partner has some screws I can borrow)

1 22cm for building v-threads (really this is super important IMO, may be used in anchor)
2 19cm for anchors (but only 1 per anchor, utilizing the 22 or a 15 situation dependant)
6 15cm for running pro (same thread count as BD 17cms, but lighter... you really shouldn’t be falling on ice climbing anyways)
1 13cm for that thin placement you can’t tie off

If I am climbing hard thin than hoping my parter has some 13cms, but for “normal” New England conditions I think my 10 screw spread is mint... YMMV
The link below might be some food for thought when choosing ice screw brands.  The food in this case would be deep dish pizza.  Any way I found this over at NEIce and though I would share it here as well.  Take it for what it is.  We don't climb concrete but still interesting.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013...echnology.html
Sorry.  Here is the working link.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/11/ice-screw-technology.html
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DLottmann

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #17 on: December 02, 2013, 08:58:33 PM »

Interesting read... best thing I got out of it;

" Rule #1?  Don't fall.  If you can't abide #1 use rock pro and tie down your belayer for good measure.”

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hobbsj

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2013, 06:04:56 PM »

Depends on where you climb.  Out in Camden, the stubby is essential, just like the pink, white and black tricam on rock.  Other places, you can go a bit longer depending on what you climb.  For instance, in MWV yesterday, I used several 16's but also placed multiple 13's and 10's due to the thickness of the ice.  I've never used my 22 out here except for a v-thread.  My 19 got dropped years ago and I haven't even noticed it missing except for the extra orange screw cover and the guilt of losing a $55 piece of gear.  16's are a good place to start as they will definitely get used a lot.  As you can see from the forum, the longer and shorter depend on who you ask.  IMOP, you can clean off junk ice, but you can't make ice, so if you can only get a limited number, I would get 1 or 2 10's and 1 or 2 13's to start with in addition to the 16's at least to start with.  You will need them at some point.  You just may not need 4 stubbies and 3 yellows to get pro at this point in your career.  And longer screws aren't necessarily stronger.  In the same quality ice, the yellow and blue BD have the same thread area.  Not sure about the long ones.  Just for FYI, my rack consists of 1 22, 6 16's, 4 13's and 4 10's.  I've been very grateful to have the option of the shorter screws in that quantity.  But, it also just the luck of what and when I climb.  Next time you're out, just take note of where you think you would want to place some gear and start assessing the ice.  And find some partners with screws to see what you use of theirs before you get too many of one size.
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Ice rack?
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2013, 08:01:49 PM »

Right now I have 4 10's,  41 3's 3 16's 1 19 and one 22. That is good for everything except The lake on a  sunny day. I want more long screws in that situation.  I like 15 screws for long routs @ the lake
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