Author Topic: It ain't rocket science folks  (Read 1911 times)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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It ain't rocket science folks
« on: November 26, 2013, 08:15:48 PM »
 This has been bugging me for quite some time now. It seems like trad climbing has been put up on some sort of holy pedestal and that most new climbers think that you can not trad climb without a 10 year apprenticeship with some crusty old fart  followed by massive drinking sessions while praying to a  statue of Henry barber. What a load of Bull honkey! Heck I have even seen partner adds where the OP stated that they lead 12 sport and 5.9 trad. Jesus H Godblasted Christ! If I led 5.12 spurt I can Fckn gaurentee you that I would be climbing a heck of a lot harder than 5.9 on gear! Heck there shouldn't be more than a letter grade difference between G rated trad and sport.
  When I started climbing there was no sport, it was just climbing and a motavated individual started leading a few months into the game. We followed as many climbs as we could, read a book or two and went out with our very slim racks and practiced putting gear in and hanging on it. We boulderded a bunch as well but without the pads and spotters. When we did have a partner we pooled our racks together and led something.

 The two things that I see the most are..
#1. the posse is hanging out top ropeing something reasonably hard. A shiny brand new spotless trad rack is hanging from a tree branch presumably so that everyone passing by will know that they are Real climbers ::) I got news for you Sunshine. hanging that shiny Xmass presant rack in a tree ain't gonna get the Nooooob shine off of it and turn you into a real climber :o The only way that is gonna happen is if you take that shiny rack off the tree branch and lead something EVERY time you go climbing.

#2. this happens at a mostly trad crag with easy TR access. Posse is TR ing and they hit me up with, Doood are there any sport climbs here? all we have are quick draws. Why don't you have any gear?  Aww man it's too expensive.
  Bullshit! you smoke dope and drink beer every day. Give up the drugs and booze for 3 months and you will have a feckin big wall rack. Heck I went out and got a second job when I started ice climbing. I worked as a mason tender in the day in addition to my reguler dinner shift Line Cook job and saved up enough to buy ice axes, used boots, crampons and screws.

Being a real climber has nothing to do with the mystique of the pink TriCam. Being a real climber has everything to do with your ability to climb a strikeing feature regardless of weather or not it has a line of bolts up it. It ain't rocket science. All it takes is a bit of effort, practice and a sense of adventure 8)

Offline DaveR

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2013, 11:21:42 PM »


F*****G Excellent Nick!  ;D

Offline sneoh

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2013, 11:36:12 PM »
Thank you for saying it Nick.  Good counter balance to the stuff LL has been spouting.

Except Strand has never mastered the mystique of the pink tricam! :)
I think I lost a couple of those at The Gunks when my seconds could not get them out!
If they are still in place, they are white tri-cams now.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline OldEric

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2013, 12:06:27 AM »
Thank you for saying it Nick.  Good counter balance to the stuff LL has been spouting.

Except Strand has never mastered the mystique of the pink tricam! :)
I think I lost a couple of those at The Gunks when my seconds could not get them out!
If they are still in place, they are white tri-cams now.

Soon - you know there actually are white tri-cams now.  And black ones.  But I am just a gym rat and a spurt weenie - what do I know?

Offline sneoh

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2013, 12:30:13 AM »
Yeah, they added both white and black.  That is why I mentioned white. Just to be confusing :)
Ajax, of all people, was unable to get my pink tri-cam out on Turdland! 

Zeb will undo your weenie-ness.  Just wait.

"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

Offline pappy

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2013, 07:44:27 AM »
This has been bugging me for quite some time now. It seems like trad climbing has been put up on some sort of holy pedestal and that most new climbers think that you can not trad climb without a 10 year apprenticeship with some crusty old fart  followed by massive drinking sessions while praying to a  statue of Henry barber. What a load of Bull honkey! Heck I have even seen partner adds where the OP stated that they lead 12 sport and 5.9 trad. Jesus H Godblasted Christ! If I led 5.12 spurt I can Fckn gaurentee you that I would be climbing a heck of a lot harder than 5.9 on gear!

Sonuvabitch, that's where I screwed up--forgot the praying to Barber stuff. I was at the T-Wall parking lot one Sunday and ran into a guy who was all jacked up because the day before he had finally red pointed his 12b project at Foster Falls, and now he was going to go knock off his other dream, to lead Art up at T-Wall, a bomber 5.8 crack, for which he was very nervous and ampped up. Say what?
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline JBrochu

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2013, 09:01:48 AM »
Give up the drugs and booze for 3 months and you will have a feckin big wall rack.


I was feeling your post until this part...

Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
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This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
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Offline Jeff

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2013, 09:08:37 AM »
Nick-- best post in the past 3 months!!!

Offline strandman

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2013, 10:19:42 AM »
Give up the drugs and booze for 3 months and you will have a feckin big wall rack.


I was feeling your post until this part...

Exactly.... how you gonna do a wall w/o  drugs and booze ???

I went out drinking with henry,, ONCE.. i was a young punk and he was an older punk...never got along.

If I ever won a lottery, i would by all the tricams in the world and burn them

Offline lucky luke

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2013, 10:32:15 AM »
When I started climbing there was no sport, it was just climbing and a motavated individual started leading a few months into the game. We followed as many climbs as we could, read a book or two and went out with our very slim racks and practiced putting gear in and hanging on it. We boulderded a bunch as well but without the pads and spotters. When we did have a partner we pooled our racks together and led something.

It is what I am saying mostly....

begin with trad training: leading a few months into the game, followed experiences leader, working on your weakness on rainy days, reading a lot, etc.

I will be curious to know the first lead of tradmanclimbz and the evolution from grade 5.6, beginner, to advance, intermediate and expert level in trad. It is not because you have learn the way every body learn before that today it is the same.

Today, the climber first lead could be as hard as 5.9 at barber wall. As a first lead. His training at placing pro as good as placing gear at the bottom of the cliff. Many more than when you begin to climb beginner route long time ago. Even dman first long multi pitch was a 5.5 at canon: lake view.

It isn't rocket science, but some progression to be trad climber look important. As you know some people panic when the stress of falling is too hard. Other will freeze and won't be able to go up or down. Knowing how you react on stressfull situation is very important and some one who panic are dangerous on lead as a dangerous situation can happen every where. Just describe step to be a trad climber and to keep the climber safe before going fast will be a great move.


Offline strandman

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2013, 10:39:11 AM »
My Cardiologist told me to avoid stress..I'm going sport climbing

Offline steve weitzler

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #11 on: November 27, 2013, 10:52:53 AM »
My first lead........sewed up a crack only to look down and see all my protection swinging from the rope. So you see, you do need to know how to boulder (high ball) before you start leading. ;) ;) ;)

Offline DaveR

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #12 on: November 27, 2013, 11:06:57 AM »
My first lead........sewed up a crack only to look down and see all my protection swinging from the rope. So you see, you do need to know how to boulder (high ball) before you start leading. ;) ;) ;)

 :)

Offline pappy

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #13 on: November 27, 2013, 12:08:13 PM »

Exactly.... how you gonna do a wall w/o  drugs and booze ???

I went out drinking with henry,, ONCE.. i was a young punk and he was an older punk...never got along.

If I ever won a lottery, i would by all the tricams in the world and burn them

You'd have a tough time protecting stuff in NC.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: It ain't rocket science folks
« Reply #14 on: November 27, 2013, 01:33:20 PM »
If you can't lay off/slow down on the juice for a few months to save up for a bigger and better adventure then perhaps you don't get it and should stick to hanging with a posse pebble pinching and getting wrecked.