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[Pete Jackson]

Last weekend at Yank The Mank, I loaned Ed E my caulking gun and some AC-100+ glue to replace a bolt. My favorite thing about AC100+ is that is comes in tubes that work with a standard caulking gun. The temperature was 18-20F, and the glue flowed like it was dried out. I bruised my hand on the caulking gun while filling the mixing nozzle and Ed was ready to kill me for putting that thing in his hand.

Since there is some winter maintenance happening in Rumney, I decided to refresh my memory on the manufacturer data for AC100+.

http://www.powers.com/pdfs/reports/ac100_coldweather_report.pdf

AC100+ develops full strength down to 14F, and develops with a small reduction in holding power down to 0F. The reduction in strength, while small, is substantial enough that I'd suggest not applying it below 14F.

I remained puzzled at the poor viscosity characteristics at 20F and decided to try a high mechanical advantage (28:1) caulking gun. When I loaded the cartridge into a high-MA gun, it flowed with regular pressure on the trigger. I reloaded the same cartridge in to my old caulking gun and couldn't get through a single trigger pull.

Problem solved. 

I know many folks here use A7 or a different glue, but since the Powers stuff is easy to get and common up here, I figured I'd share the experience and suggest that saving money on the caulking gun isn't a good idea. I bought this one, still at a good price:  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DYN9JO/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[eyebolter]

I'm using A7.  I used to use Hilti C-100 until they stopped making it.

A7 works in wet rock, which is a huge plus, but in reinforcing flakes I don't think it works as well as the old C-100.  JMHO.

All glues are different, but in general glueing below 30 is not a good idea.

[tradmanclimbz]

I used a tube of the AC100+ Gold this spring. Like it because the cartrige is neat and easy to re use.  Much better than the Silka .

[ed_esmond]

pete,

during the whole process, i was positive the problem was with the gun rather than the epoxy.  believe me, if i had thought there was any issue with the glue, i wouldn't have used it.

i use caulking guns in my work all the time and a cheap gun is worse than useless. 

using an epoxy adhesives in tubes that fit in a standard gun is convenient, but the cost/hole is high.  i think i paid about $85 for a Redhead A7 dispenser.  if you need to buy a $30 caulking gun, spending another $50+ might make more sense, if you do a lot of glueing.

ward's preference for the old hilti c-100 is understandable.  that stuff was so nasty, you just knew it had to be good.

ed e

[M_Sprague]

I like the A7 better than the old C-100, mostly for the reasons: 1 it can be used in damp conditions 2. looks better. 3. doesn't smell quite as bad and 3. sets up and is usable more quickly (though that can be a negative in hot sunny weather . It also seems to sag less than I remember the C-100 doing.

The only issue I really had with the A7 was with the guns. (I use the one for  8 oz tubes) They are kind of expensive and the heads of the plungers tend to unscrew and fall off into the scree field when you are hanging 200 feet off the deck. Unfortunately, they wont sell you the parts to repair them so you have to buy a whole new gun unless you are able to make them yourself. All they are, are simple aluminum discs with threaded holes tapped into the center, so they are easy to make if you have the tools. Other than that, the gun works well. Just make sure you Locktite the aluminum discs at the head of the plunger before you take it out into the field.

Redhead describes A7 as "all weather" and says it pumps fine at 0 deg F without preheating, listing cure times all the way down to -18 deg F. (Handy for us rebolting Rumney this winter- full cure time 6 hrs down to 7 deg F, 24 hrs down to -18) 

http://www.itwredhead.com/specifications.php?A7---acrylic-adhesive-28-oz.-10-oz.-8-oz.-and-5-oz.-1

[ed_esmond]

What I love about NEClimbs:

Eyebolter, Spraguey, ed e and the "Tradman"  all commenting on their favorite epoxy….

i can't help but feel like Jake in the iconic movie, "The Glues Brothers…"

Elwood: It's 16 bolts to the anchor, we got a full tube of glue, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses.

Jake: Hit it.

ed e

ps. when "climbing" is at this point, even thinking/wanting to argue about a "distinction between 'trad' and 'sport'" is beyond absurd….

[strandman]

Don't forget the ' 2 36v batteries "

6 hour cure at 7 degrees,, that's pretty good

[pappy]

ps. when "climbing" is at this point, even thinking/wanting to argue about a "distinction between 'trad' and 'sport'" is beyond absurd….

yeah, but when it's gotten to this point I do want to hurl. But that's just me...

[ed_esmond]

yeah, but when it's gotten to this point I do want to hurl. But that's just me...

pappy…

you're right, "it is just you…"

and, i'll allow, it was a clever reply, but it begs the question:

why do you need to "hurl?"  did you eat some "bad chicken or something???"*

i suspect that it's easy to feel sick when one allows their chosen ideology to shape reality, rather have reality create the ideology….

if you don't like something, that's just great. you're never required to like or even appreciate what someone else may like…

but maybe, just maybe, we'd all be better off if we all didn't have to hear about every time you feel the need to "hurl…."

we'd think you more stoic, more "old skool…" (and, isn't that what it's really all about?)

respectfully,

ed e

ps. even "Tradman" has opinion on "epoxy…" what does that tell you??

*with a "tip o' the hat" to the funniest climbing writer ever, Tami Knight

[tradmanclimbz]

You know what they say about opinions......



Pappy, remember that time your were all fired up to have Arnie kick his own butt over the power drill? things are not always as bad as they seem.....

[Pete Jackson]

Pappy, remember that time your were all fired up to have Arnie kick his own butt over the power drill? things are not always as bad as they seem.....

Did he ever get his gas can back?

[pappy]

but maybe, just maybe, we'd all be better off if we all didn't have to hear about every time you feel the need to "hurl…."

we'd think you more stoic, more "old skool…" (and, isn't that what it's really all about?)

respectfully,

ed e

ps. even "Tradman" has opinion on "epoxy…" what does that tell you??

*with a "tip o' the hat" to the funniest climbing writer ever, Tami Knight

Believe me, you don't hear about it every time. Reading this the image that leapt to mind was of a bunch of old biddies at a quilting bee, debating the intricacies of epoxies, I mean drop stitches, or whatever. I guess you gotta do it somewhere and a forum for sport climbing makes sense, but you got to admit--it's a pretty pathetic image to be associated with climbing.