One must realize that when they go climbing shit can happen and that they need to be able to figure it out themselves. If they can't or don't well that is the way it goes. My good friend Paul Duval had a saying after every day of climbing, "Well Steve, we live to climb another day." When Megan S. and I were coaching for you Steve we had an incident in Donner pass after nationals that almost killed her! No one did a thing wrong, it was just shit luck that left us both shaking and we quit for the day. Just proves what Tom N. said to me once, If you climb long enough and hard enough it is likely that someday something will go very wrong even when you do things right and you better have your shit together and be ready for it.
I agree. Long time ago, we talk about...don't remember the name. But it is mistake cause by human error and cause by the fact that shit happen in the mountain. (Note: if someone have a hold mountaineering freedom of the hill fifth edition
, I will buy it, I lost mine) The problem it is that we have more accident cause by human mistake because they use a technique inappropriate for a situation...or stick on the problem because of what the other will think if they bail. Follow the advice of expert
: look at the avy danger, bring your sleeping, a map, a compass, your climbing tool, a Sherpa...better a mule... and you need a rescue
(Note: reckless model doesn't mean that the climber is not good or careless, it means that he show that any body can do what he do without learning the technique outside that he took many years to master. When one climber understand that he his a model for other and still push them to climb as hard as him, without all the basic that he learn, it is a problem. It is also self proclaim model, who are better than each of us the second year he climb.)