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Author Topic: stealing draws Smith Rock video  (Read 537 times)

bfulton

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stealing draws Smith Rock video
« on: December 23, 2013, 04:09:08 PM »

maybe this has been posted here before but here is an interesting video on a subject that comes-up here sometimes. Something to look at on a rainy day.

http://vimeo.com/18267416

found at http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/search/label/Climbing%20Ethics

"Many high-end climbers (5.11-5.15 climbers) regularly employ the use of fixed draws on their projects.  In other words, they leave draws fixed on hard bolted sport climbs so that they can easily come back in order to continue working on the ascent of their routes.  Many sport climbers will come back to the same climb over and over again, sometimes logging weeks or even months, working to successfully complete their climbs.

This technique of "working" a climb used to be looked-down upon, but has become the norm for people trying to climb very difficult routes. The technically hardest rock climbs in the world are now regularly being climbed this way.

The issue with this technique is that it is now common for climbing draws to be almost permanently left on hard climbs. There are two problems with this. First, some land managers don't like the nearly permanent installation of these draws. And second, the fact that these draws have been left behind provides a major temptation to individuals who don't know any better and for thieves.

In the Winter of 2010, three climbers confronted an individual who was systematically stripping draws off of hard climbs at Smith Rock State Park. Instead of physically attacking the individual for stealing draws, the climbers kept level heads and educated the individual about what he was doing and how it affected them. Luckily for the climbing community, these climbers elected to film the confrontation for educational purposes. A video of the incident can be seen below:

There are many climbers out there who don't like the fact that there are bolts in the rock. And there are many climbers out there who really don't like the fact the bolts have draws permanently affixed to them.  But when all is said and done, regardless of your beliefs about this issue, if you know that the draws have been set to assist in a climber's ascent, then taking them is stealing."
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Admin Al

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2013, 04:40:21 PM »

Sheesh...
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SA

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2013, 06:01:32 PM »

What a DB that jerk is!

Slashing his tires would be the least the guy deserves.

I bet J.S. will have some kind words.
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darwined

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2013, 07:51:34 PM »

It's litter plain and simple.
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perswig

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2013, 08:15:32 PM »

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1360959/Smith-Rock-Theif

Ten pages of discourse from a couple years ago.  Good stuff.
Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

strandman

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2013, 03:40:08 PM »

The right up nauseates me.. is it that hard to clip a bolt ?  and then it's a pink point not redpoint   :)  That said a thief is a thief and we must quote marc Twight-

" When i find him ,I'll rip his head off and shit down his throat"  merry  Christmas  !
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2013, 03:49:58 PM »

Not fond of fixed draws but the dude is damn creepy and knows he is stealing. Fairly simple that by sport climbing rules takeing fixed draws is stealing and he obviously knows it.
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sneoh

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2013, 07:23:35 PM »

From my experience, almost all nylon/Al fixed draws are rather manky.  I would not want to steal them!  Perhaps these are climbers' project draws (up for weeks to a season) which are generally in better shape than the multi-season nylon/Al fixed draws.

As far as I am concerned, true fixed draws should be the best SS cable draws possible and made to blend in with the surroundings as much as possible.  Anything else, it would be better not to have anything fixed at all. 
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frik

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Re: stealing draws Smith Rock video
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2013, 03:19:32 PM »

Trad, nice one: "sport climbing rules".



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