Author Topic: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?  (Read 1192 times)

Offline kenreville

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Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« on: January 07, 2014, 10:22:08 PM »
Although it doesn't concern me these days, hey Al- one would think that the "Instant Ice Report" would be at least a 4? Afterall, it's been colder than a witch's tit in the proverbial brass bra.

What gives you ice climbing maniac?

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2014, 10:54:44 PM »
we'll see on Thursday. it was almost 4 before the rains...
Al Hospers
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DLottmann

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2014, 09:03:16 PM »
There is amazing ice in places I have never seen it before. Conditions are awesome IMO, and a bit of warming would help. Myth is forming, if not do-able, stuff on Humprehyís I have never seen before, stuff on Whitehorse up above Echo Roof... that left hand variation on Snot Rocket is almost ready for 10cm screws from the start... SO much to do right now... and zero time off.... <sigh>

Definitely a 4/5 IMO...

P.S. Dracula is now 3++ due to easy hooking/stepped condition ;) Still steep so donít daly ;)

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2014, 09:19:00 PM »
Man for some reason that shit pisses me off! dracula is NEVER 3+ just like PT and various other trade rt 4+ and 5 climbs are NEVER 3+ and all you do when you spray that shit is  get people who shouldn't be on those climbs to grab their go pros get hurt.   A slight refresher course here hard boys.  pinnacle  and standard are the gold standard for 3+.  In the Daks it is Chiounards  for grade 3 and RBF for 3+ ::) and yes those climbs are in fact dead easy.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2014, 09:30:15 PM »
Man for some reason that shit pisses me off! dracula is NEVER 3+ just like PT and various other trade rt 4+ and 5 climbs are NEVER 3+ and all you do when you spray that shit is  get people who shouldn't be on those climbs to grab their go pros get hurt.   A slight refresher course here hard boys.  pinnacle  and standard are the gold standard for 3+.  In the Daks it is Chiounards  for grade 3 and RBF for 3+ ::) and yes those climbs are in fact dead easy.

Not sure what the issue is Nick. Getting pizzed off only shortens your life.

If Dracula is all stepped and pocked and is easier than "normal", what better time for a budding hard man to climb it than then?

IMO, Multiplication Gully is the gold standard for grade 3 ice in the ADK. Ice being as variable as it is, I've never quite understood the +/- rating applied to it.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2014, 09:46:41 PM »
Just buggs me when they single out a climb and spray how easy it is because it  causes a huge cluster of lemmings and does nothing to  better the sport. then when the guy who finally gets the game on to go lead Dracula has to wait in line and then have annother party crawling up his arse and at the end of the day be told  by someone with diminished reality awareness from too much climbing that it is only grade 3..

Offline kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2014, 09:57:56 PM »
I can understand that.

Although I haven't ice climbed in years (it's undoubtedly more crowded these days), my solution to crowds has always been simple.
Get there first.
I remember one of the times I climbed Repentence, you could drive on the road almost right below the climb. Got there in the dark with no other cars in sight, and just knew that we were gonna get to the base first. So we (I honestly can't remember who I was with) nonchalantly geared up and strolled up the trail. We were only there only a minute or so when two climbers came towards us- not on the approach trail, but rather along the base-of-the-cliff trail. Turns out it was Jerry Handren and a client from IMCS. The sneaky brit almost beat me to it! He told me he had used this tactic many times.
« Last Edit: January 08, 2014, 09:59:35 PM by kenreville »

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2014, 06:26:14 AM »
Those climbs are pleanty busy enough without getting downgraded and there really is no good reason to take away from someones accomplishment with a downgrade that simply is not true. easy for the grade yes. Grade 3 NFW

DLottmann

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2014, 06:58:57 AM »
Didnít mean to piss any one off... let me rephrase and say ďItís in easier condition than normal due to the high traffic it has been seeing. Still pumpy as hell if you are not dialedĒ.

Offline pappy

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #9 on: January 09, 2014, 08:09:58 AM »
In the Daks it is Chiounards  for grade 3 and RBF for 3+ ::) and yes those climbs are in fact dead easy.

RBF is 3+? Explains where Joe used to come from when he would say, 'Grade 2? You mean walking?'
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #10 on: January 09, 2014, 06:12:13 PM »
Believe it or not RBF was 3+ to 4- in the old blue book and yes grade 2 is walking unless it is bullet proof ice in which case it is crawling. I generally hate grade 2 unless the ice is soft enough to stand up and walk.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2014, 06:39:02 PM »
Well there ya go Al.

5 outta five. Almost makes me want to look for my damn crampons.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2014, 08:39:53 PM »
dunno how long that 5 will last with this weather coming in tho...
Al Hospers
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Offline kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2014, 08:34:46 AM »
Yeah. It's 8am Saturday and already looking grim..... with most of the "R" word yet to come.

Hence why we're known as stoic New Englanders. Just grin and bear it.

Offline danf

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #14 on: January 11, 2014, 09:33:26 PM »
Yeah. It's 8am Saturday and already looking grim..... with most of the "R" word yet to come.

Hence why we're known as stoic New Englanders. Just grin and bear it.
I think I figured out why I really have no desire to ice climb.... After driving on it all day and putting down countless yards of sand and salt I really don't care to be around it! My fully loaded F550 only did a 180 degree spin twice- and that wasn't the pucker factor high of the day. I have a feeling my wife will drag me out sometime but I'm in no hurry.