General > General Climbing

Only 3 Axes Outta 5?

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kenreville:
Although it doesn't concern me these days, hey Al- one would think that the "Instant Ice Report" would be at least a 4? Afterall, it's been colder than a witch's tit in the proverbial brass bra.

What gives you ice climbing maniac?

Admin Al:
we'll see on Thursday. it was almost 4 before the rains...

DLottmann:
There is amazing ice in places I have never seen it before. Conditions are awesome IMO, and a bit of warming would help. Myth is forming, if not do-able, stuff on Humprehyís I have never seen before, stuff on Whitehorse up above Echo Roof... that left hand variation on Snot Rocket is almost ready for 10cm screws from the start... SO much to do right now... and zero time off.... <sigh>

Definitely a 4/5 IMO...

P.S. Dracula is now 3++ due to easy hooking/stepped condition ;) Still steep so donít daly ;)

tradmanclimbz:
Man for some reason that shit pisses me off! dracula is NEVER 3+ just like PT and various other trade rt 4+ and 5 climbs are NEVER 3+ and all you do when you spray that shit is  get people who shouldn't be on those climbs to grab their go pros get hurt.   A slight refresher course here hard boys.  pinnacle  and standard are the gold standard for 3+.  In the Daks it is Chiounards  for grade 3 and RBF for 3+ ::) and yes those climbs are in fact dead easy.

kenreville:

--- Quote from: tradmanclimbz on January 08, 2014, 09:19:00 PM ---Man for some reason that shit pisses me off! dracula is NEVER 3+ just like PT and various other trade rt 4+ and 5 climbs are NEVER 3+ and all you do when you spray that shit is  get people who shouldn't be on those climbs to grab their go pros get hurt.   A slight refresher course here hard boys.  pinnacle  and standard are the gold standard for 3+.  In the Daks it is Chiounards  for grade 3 and RBF for 3+ ::) and yes those climbs are in fact dead easy.

--- End quote ---

Not sure what the issue is Nick. Getting pizzed off only shortens your life.

If Dracula is all stepped and pocked and is easier than "normal", what better time for a budding hard man to climb it than then?

IMO, Multiplication Gully is the gold standard for grade 3 ice in the ADK. Ice being as variable as it is, I've never quite understood the +/- rating applied to it.

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