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Author Topic: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?  (Read 1040 times)

kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #15 on: January 12, 2014, 12:29:37 PM »

Yeah. It's 8am Saturday and already looking grim..... with most of the "R" word yet to come.

Hence why we're known as stoic New Englanders. Just grin and bear it.
I think I figured out why I really have no desire to ice climb.... After driving on it all day and putting down countless yards of sand and salt I really don't care to be around it! My fully loaded F550 only did a 180 degree spin twice- and that wasn't the pucker factor high of the day. I have a feeling my wife will drag me out sometime but I'm in no hurry.

Good for you dan. It took me many years of climbing the stuff to eventually realize that there was better things to do with my time. Of course, this is my personal opinion. To those that still get there jollies doing it, good for them.
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WanderlustMD

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #16 on: January 12, 2014, 08:11:44 PM »

I wan't able to get up this weekend but it sounds like things took a hit. Say it ain't so...
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DLottmann

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #17 on: January 12, 2014, 08:26:21 PM »

Lotta ice hate on NEClimbs lately... thatís cool... too crowded as it is... and too each there own, but I gotta say today was AWESOME. Climbing fat plastic ice is one of the best experiences once can have in climbing IMO... granted, it was a little bit more wet than I would like... but cruising up 300 feet of grade 3+ ice in less than 2 hours with a partner is so MUCH FUN!

I guess since I feel better on ice than rock Iím biased... but I love steep jug hauling... which is what ice climbing is (not counting brittle or thin conditions)...

Modern clothing & tools makes it quite enjoyable...

So Franks recap, pics to follow on my blog tomorrow night:

Smear is hanging tough... Pegasus colums are GONE, rock finish climbed today and is good (approach via Hobbit)...

Chia is hanging tough...

Cave is still IN, Bobís is DONE

Trestle flows and Slabs are FAT and plastics...

Waterfall looks OK still...

Standard Left is OUT

Standard is still in but has open water in center line... best line IMO is up right side of the cave at 3+... upper tier took a hit but right column is still attached and strong... middle column is sketch and open/detached at top, easy exit out left is fine...

Dracula is FAT...

Descent trail is heinous, rappelling from partway down gully was our choice today...
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darwined

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #18 on: January 12, 2014, 08:44:32 PM »

glad to hear it
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kenreville

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #19 on: January 12, 2014, 09:37:42 PM »

It's not hate Dman.

I'm glad you had a good time.
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old_school

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #20 on: January 13, 2014, 10:28:03 AM »

Got Bob's in last week...steep and sketchy on either side of the main flow. Kind of funny...you could hear the water gurgling under the ice at the belay as if someone were shaking a Nalgene bottle next to your ear.
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

Admin Al

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #21 on: January 13, 2014, 05:22:36 PM »

Got Bob's in last week...steep and sketchy on either side of the main flow. Kind of funny...you could hear the water gurgling under the ice at the belay as if someone were shaking a Nalgene bottle next to your ear.

thought you had quit climbing... ;-)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #22 on: January 13, 2014, 09:18:03 PM »

It's not hate it is depression. yes many of the fat easy climbs are still good but the shinny harder stuff is mostly gone :'(  I did  solo shoestring today and it was good. the right hand finish was a bit skinnier and harder than I expected.. It sucked me in and then you get kind of commited and when I could finally see the top out it was pretty interesting. Climbed better than it looked so it was all good 8)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2014, 08:11:32 AM »

Woke up this morning completly satisfied with my ice season and ready for rock.  I feel like I had a great time on some harder climbs that I had dreamed about climbing for a long time. About the only hard stuff left this time of year is @ the Lake Unless Drop line is still in? the stuff @ the lake is in Funky late season form and most of it I have allready done..   I was planning on some easier solos up high but all this snow puts a nix on that for awhile....
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2014, 08:55:56 AM »

Just found this shot Isa took back in december and it reminded me how much i like early season freshly formed ice Vs the baked out  late season variety.. Its steep, new and exciteing. the start of the season when you are not sure what it will bring..   the late season can be fun as well. Hanging on to old memories, not quite willing to give up on winter... 
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ridgerunner

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2014, 09:22:41 AM »

Nick :
"yes grade 2 is walking unless it is bullet proof ice in which case it is crawling. I generally hate grade 2 unless the ice is soft enough to stand up and walk. "
The + in Parasol Gully's 2+ rating sure makes a difference, eh ?

 ;)
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tradmanclimbz

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #26 on: March 14, 2014, 09:36:30 AM »

yea. that was actually pretty fun.  Shoe string  has that + as well and the steeper sections are fun. Early season shoestring if there is no snow and it's bullet proof the lower angle stuff is a bit too much like work..    actually my most exciteing pitch of the season was the direct finish of Shoestring the 1st freeze day after the January thaw..  That pitch is grade 3. It was in thin 3+ condition that day and felt pretty far out there with no one knowing where I was. You guys would have had a field day with that one had I not scratched my way to the top;)
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DLottmann

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Re: Only 3 Axes Outta 5?
« Reply #27 on: March 14, 2014, 06:19:25 PM »

Climbed Standard and Dracula today... I like early season challenges but there is something quite fun about hooking your way up a very steep stepíd line without ever having to swing or kick... it sure looks like your good, even if youíre not ;)

Also got to glissade the snow gully descent to Hanging Gardens from the top... waist deep POW... was slightly concerned we could trigger it but it stayed put... would have been a fun ski...
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