Author Topic: Cilley-Barber  (Read 706 times)

darwined

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Cilley-Barber
« on: January 30, 2014, 10:08:57 PM »
I'm pretty sure this is going to be "Redlining it" for me.  Would anybody be willing to trade emails discussing your rack for this route?
  What did you use?  What could you have left at home?  Thank you in advance

Derek
« Last Edit: January 30, 2014, 10:13:20 PM by darwined »

DLottmann

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2014, 10:24:58 PM »
If it is in standard ice rack, 10-12 screws... not much rock gear from what I have heard, pretty much a pure ice route. We climbed Piggy Wiggy while friends of ours climbed CB a few years ago...

What do you mean by "redlining" it?

Offline Shepherds Pie

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2014, 12:38:55 AM »
I'm pretty sure this is going to be "Redlining it" for me.  Would anybody be willing to trade emails discussing your rack for this route?
  What did you use?  What could you have left at home?  Thank you in advance

Derek

I've done it twice and never had to place any rock gear.  10 screws is more than sufficient; you can plan on simul climbing all but maybe one pitch down low and one or two up high at the crux depending on your comfort level.  Once you pass the crux it is hella fun to climb out left onto the ridge which is primarily steep snow weaving around rocks in a spectacular position. 

If you want an extra security blanket, I suggest adding 6 assorted lost arrows and KBs.  Don't overthink the route into something it's not, it's quite fun and not all that difficult.

Offline Climber57r

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2014, 09:39:56 AM »
Make sure you have cotton t-shirts, a cell phone, and a SPOT device...then you can climb any grade you want ;). Killing it man. Enjoy the weekend.

Good times. Good climbs. Get out there, get after it, and most of all enjoy it.

"A not neat knot, is a knot not needed"

Offline snowleopard

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2014, 11:49:47 AM »
Yeah! Just the right climb for cotton technique....don't forget to carry some towels (cotton) for the
wet T-shirt changing at belays and a Go-Pro helmet cam to document the fun! ;)

Offline lucky luke

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2014, 01:04:54 PM »
Make sure you have cotton t-shirts, a cell phone, and a SPOT device...then you can climb any grade you want ;). Killing it man. Enjoy the weekend.

Can be great if you change your t-shirt just before the crux, surprisingly warmer after.

I was on lincoln throat and the ice crux was not there at all. it was not climbable at all. Just be aware that it is very similar to the route that you are going to climb. If you can have some ice condition from them, it could be great.

I forgot new t-shirts in lincoln and after I remove the first one, I soak completely all my layer and, standing at the top, was cold. So, I hike down fast. Some time it is predictable.

Look like a great climb

 

DLottmann

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2014, 08:53:23 PM »

Can be great if you change your t-shirt just before the crux, surprisingly warmer after.
...
I forgot new t-shirts in lincoln and after I remove the first one, I soak completely all my layer and, standing at the top, was cold...

Surprised to be warmer after changing out of a wet cotton t-shirt? Who would have figured?

Iím sure the lesson here is donít forget extra cotton t-shirts... or maybe donít wear cotton... only time will tell... oh wait... it has...

Cotton sucks in winter.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2014, 09:07:44 PM »
Rolling down a hill dressed in cotton has been scientifically proven to increase R factor.

It's the truth.  I'm tellin ya.....

Offline strandman

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2014, 11:14:16 AM »
Sure, but what about fishnet ?? That would bring it up to X  or X position or X factor  or ????......

Offline OldEric

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2014, 01:58:20 PM »
Sure, but what about fishnet ?? That would bring it up to X  or X position or X factor  or ????......

Someone seems to have a fetish...

Offline strandman

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Re: Cilley-Barber
« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2014, 03:56:30 PM »
i wouldn't say fetish.... ::)