How far is too far when it comes to runouts on ice? Is it entirely about comfort level?
I think so... I climbed Repentance with George Hurley today. he placed his first piece, cam, about 12' up, then he ran it out about 20' to his next screw.
tweklve feet, I think it is just under the first crux and, twenty feet, when the crack narrow? look like experience climber, not climbing for the first time this season.
But I like the idea that you look at the ice and decide before if the ice is good or bad and where you place the protection. I saw a lot of people, not saying that the women dit it, who climb and, when they are in trouble,...try to place a pro in "catastrophe". Doing that, you loose power and confidence. Any beta to avoid that situation?
In the second accident, I don't know if he place a protection or if he take a long whipper. One of my friend fall there and he lost one of his ice axe long time ago. To broke and hanckel, is it possible that the rope was too thight and that the guy came back to the wall too fast. Falling in a route with pratically 90 degree ice, it is surprising.