Author Topic: Is this sport exploding or what?  (Read 2504 times)

Offline SA

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Is this sport exploding or what?
« on: February 03, 2014, 08:26:17 AM »
I was pretty amazed to see the hoards of climbers at this years Ice Fest. I'm not the oldest climber on the block, but to give some perspective, back when I started climbing, it was not unusual to find only one car parked at the base of Cathedral Ledge on a fine weekend. There were no guides when I started, and perhaps one climbing magazine.

The game has certainly changed in 50 years. I wonder where the sport will be 50 years from now? Will there be a gate-keeper at the base of the popular routes?

Offline strandman

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2014, 09:16:40 AM »
Gatekeeper ? maybe you and JB ???  Collect the $$ and get some beers !  Wasn't the first "ice" guide part of Paul's '78 rock book ?

Offline DGoguen

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2014, 09:36:10 AM »
Wilcox and Cole "Shades of Blue" pre dated that one by a couple of years.
The grades are Easy, moderate and Hard.

Ross and Ellms guide in 78 used the NEI numbered system.

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Offline eyebolter

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2014, 09:46:35 AM »
Wilcox and Cole "Shades of Blue" pre dated that one by a couple of years.
The grades are Easy, moderate and Hard.


Yeah, the first "moderate" I did from that guide was Waterfall at Frankenstein.  Straight wood shaft ice axe, crappy hammer and no wrist loops, and flexible crampons.  A couple of crappy screws was all I got in and I crawled over the top in a panic all drenched in sweat. 

Not a single other party at Frankenstein that weekend.  I'm guessing that the new equipment might have something to do with the crowds. 

Offline Jeff

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2014, 11:40:04 AM »
" I'm guessing that the new equipment might have something to do with the crowds. "

No question about that--EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING-- wool knickers, or air force flight pants, wool sweaters and shirts, Dachstein mitts, Sierra Design 60/40 parka and wool balaclavas were a lot heavier, bulkier and more "manly" ( and a lot less waterproof or windproof, although once the knickers, parka and dachsteins were snow saturated and frozen stiff they were windproof  8))-- the funk while trying to dry out later in the Harvard Cabin or a bar was a rare delight that had to be experienced!  Many of us also wore cotton T-necks under all that, even before LL was around to advise us! lol I wonder why there were so few women in the sport then!!

Offline pappy

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2014, 01:03:49 PM »
The biggest difference is the screws. Clothes are clothes, and I would still be as comfortable leading 5 with my Chacal and Hummingbird (or just about) as with my Prophets or any of the newer tools. Being able to stop on vertical ice and place a screw you know is bomber with one hand? Priceless.

If we could just go back to our old Chouinards and Snargs it would weed out all this riff raff in a hurry, and worth it, too. I'm pretty sure I still have one of those ratchets around here...
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline kenreville

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2014, 02:53:15 PM »
The biggest difference is the screws. Clothes are clothes, and I would still be as comfortable leading 5 with my Chacal and Hummingbird (or just about) as with my Prophets or any of the newer tools. Being able to stop on vertical ice and place a screw you know is bomber with one hand? Priceless.

If we could just go back to our old Chouinards and Snargs it would weed out all this riff raff in a hurry, and worth it, too. I'm pretty sure I still have one of those ratchets around here...

Snargs. Now that's funny. I've still got a few of those badboys.

Offline pappy

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2014, 03:00:31 PM »
I still use them.  ::)
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.

Offline markvnh

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2014, 03:28:49 PM »
Damn I had a whole rack of those Chouinard's with the ratchet! And I use to carry a Yosemite hammer just to bang in snargs - get a starter hole and a couple whacks with that hammer and you were good to go! But what a PITA for the second to get out!

Offline strandman

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2014, 04:17:34 PM »
You pussies using ratchets...pick of the tool for screws....Oh that's right I gaveup ice in'82..Terrors, Chouinard hammer and leather boots....i wonder why ?

Offline markvnh

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2014, 05:16:53 PM »
...once they came out with real good tubular screws we dumped the ratchets as even using your pick the new screws went in better! And there were always the fall back snargs!

Offline ralbert20

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2014, 05:36:45 PM »
Oh man! Who let the geriatrics out of the nursing home?

Just kidding - I probably can't even keep up with you guys. I wish you had some go pro footage of those ascents back in the day...  ;)

Offline strandman

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #12 on: February 03, 2014, 06:23:21 PM »
if i remember right,Bouchard did the Dike with a 70cm bamboo axe and an alpine hammer '71..and the lowe's ascent  os Ames ice Hose (still grade 4 ) was similar stuff. in NH guys like Rainsford Rouner and Bryan Becker among many were WAY good in the 70's

Offline eyebolter

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2014, 06:50:22 PM »
Oh man! Who let the geriatrics out of the nursing home?

Just kidding - I probably can't even keep up with you guys. I wish you had some go pro footage of those ascents back in the day...  ;)

Hey, I still have all my teeth and get a woody every morning, so ease up on me! 

Offline pappy

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Re: Is this sport exploding or what?
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2014, 07:39:51 PM »
But what a PITA for the second to get out!

That's why I still use them. Bitch at me about climbing slow and I'll find a crevice between two bulges, hammer that sucker in, and laugh like hell while you have to chop half a ton of ice away to screw it out. Don't f#ck with the old dog.
If you're gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough.