Author Topic: Willeys or Cinema?  (Read 445 times)

Offline cje123

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Willeys or Cinema?
« on: February 26, 2014, 06:15:37 PM »
Taking my wife on her first multi-pitch this weekend, wondering if any one had a current  conditions report.  thanks.

Offline Admin Al

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2014, 07:03:32 PM »
For full report check the Report tomorrow. However I looked at Cinema today and it looked out. Willies looks great.
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DLottmann

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2014, 10:36:18 PM »
Willey’s is fat, was on it a few days ago... IMO that little slab to the right of Left Hand Monkey Wrench into The Cleft with a short summit hike to the top of Willard and a fun walk back to the car is a way better 1st MP that Willey’s... but I think I like iced up gully’s better than big ole’ slabs... that slab + Cleft isn’t any harder than Willey’s, but way more aesthetic, though Willey’s is considered a classic...

Offline Stephane

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2014, 08:12:39 AM »
I have similar plans for this week-end: long + easy routes in the Whites.
I am not super familiar with Willard... except for Cinema, I am confused in trying to identify routes on Willard. So I would be extremely grateful (means I'd pay a beer to the informant  ;)) if I could get more info on this easy route suggested by DMan: how do I get there (let's say from the base of Cinema)? quick route description (for instance, is the "cleft" right above the slab or is there a traverse)?, number of pitches, etc...
Also, any idea as to the conditions on Shoestring?
Thanks !!

Offline neiceclimber

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2014, 02:03:53 PM »
Left Hand Monkey Wrentch or LHMW is far to the right of cinema, the slabs are farther right or west of cinema and form the 2 open gashes that look like they could touch the railroad tracks when driving west on 302. To get to LHMW walk the tracks and after the rocks but before cinema you should see a small gully heading up, should be boot packed. When you hit the rock wall or  start of the climbing head right along the cliff a good ways and when you see easy ice you hit LMHW. To reach the slabs you could ( I never have) keep walking right and maybe just ever so slightly down hill and the first slab of ice is what Dman is talking about. The top out shout put you directly below a small gash in the wall called the Cleft.

DLottmann

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #5 on: February 27, 2014, 06:32:50 PM »
... if I could get more info on this easy route suggested by DMan: how do I get there (let's say from the base of Cinema)? quick route description (for instance, is the "cleft" right above the slab or is there a traverse)?, number of pitches, etc......
Thanks !!

Best tactic is to pull off on Rt 302 when across from LHMW which is easily identified (big ice flow to the right of Lower Hitchcock Gully). You should be able to spot the deeply cut Cleft on the upper tier. The slab I am referring to is directly below that Cleft (and is fed from it's runoff)...

Once you locate the slab study how far it is from something like Snot Rocket which is right on the tracks... that should give you an idea... I've approached it directly a few times (without going up to LHMW) and it isn't that far uphill from the tracks.

To get to Cleft it's as easy as topping out the slab and following the small drainage which comes directly from the Cleft...

As far as pitches I recommend 1 long pitch on the slab, followed by a short pitch or roped movement up to the Cleft... then 2-3 pitches in the Cleft.

Offline Stephane

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #6 on: February 27, 2014, 10:21:49 PM »
DMan, neiceclimber: thanks much gentlemen! Appreciated.

DLottmann

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2014, 07:22:40 AM »
Just to clarify as I may have misled you... when I said pull off on 302 that is just for recon... still use the parking lot at the top of the notch...

Offline Stephane

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Re: Willeys or Cinema?
« Reply #8 on: February 28, 2014, 01:44:04 PM »
Yeah, that's what I concluded.... after a few seconds of confusion ! :o