30+something years of ice. 4 off the couch, 4+ 2nd day out sometimes 4+ on the 1st day. Work up to the occasional 5 when its in super fat.
1 ice leaderfall. cragging on a 4+ that was in 5+ condition I had soloed the climb the previous march comfortably when it was in 4- condition. Totally underestimated it and when I got up on the crux pillar the following january it was candled and overhanging. 5+ moves but not long enough to be rated harder than 4+ My screws kept hitting air so i kept fireing them in trying to get one I actually liked. Hung out in the steepest part for too long. Put a screw in , hit air, take it out try again, hit air again. had that thing sewed up tighter than a nuns corset! Totally gassed out wanking arround with the gear on the steep and when i finally did swing over the top of the pillar it sheared off. I had enough gas left to push the huge plate out of the way and get one last ok stick but not enough gas to pull the move. Steep clean fall, kept my feet moveing , no injury. Big embaresment.
I have taken a bunch of hangs. ice is aid anyways and falling on ice is stupid so if I am getting unreasonably gassed rather than climb blindly into a pump ( see dracula video) I fire in a screw and take a hang. Gives you a chance to make a rational decision. thread off or rest up and finish.
1 fall on steep mixed. caught in the dark without the headlamp turned on. couldn't see my feet and popped off on to a cam and stopper. hung and turned on the headlamp. fired the last 3 moves to the trees.