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Author Topic: ice flow  (Read 1252 times)

lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #15 on: February 20, 2014, 11:20:24 PM »

HEY!!! Yeah You- Lucky Luke

"As some one work a route for years(sic): the commitment rating most be several months..."

Please elaborate on this sentence. WTF does it mean?

I think that you know where I am going. :D

Definition of commitment rating: length of climb, number of hard pitches, difficulty of hardest pitch, average difficulty, commitment, route finding problems, and overall ascent time. It is often call the “commitment grade.

onsight: commitment, route finding problems, and overall ascent time

overall ascent time: seven month...  not really....
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JBrochu

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2014, 10:09:17 AM »

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Have a quiche, now, or maybe a tort.  You deserve it!
-bristolpipe

I like to keep things simple, even if it's faaaken painful and miserable.
-Stoney Middleton

This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.
-Friar Tuck

old_school

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2014, 11:17:32 AM »

Ice is for pouring whiskey over..hamish Mcinnes...

Oban is nice too!!! But I like mine neat  ;)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2014, 05:47:16 PM »

Of course..keep things simple

Skinner said he fell 300+ times over 4 months freeing Salathe....commitment rating ????
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2014, 07:18:33 PM »

Of course..keep things simple
Skinner said he fell 300+ times over 4 months freeing Salathe....commitment rating ????

If you consider of two climber with regard to onsight and working the route 300+ times, the one who onsight will climb harder than the other.

I agree that commitment rating is not good for competition.... it is for trad climber.
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kenreville

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2014, 09:22:41 PM »

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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2014, 12:21:47 AM »

I agree that commitment rating is not good for competition.... it is for trad climber.

Lot of climber told me that they don"t have time to workout to climb hard and they want to climb because it is fun.

On the other side, they don"t want to be bad climber, so they want to do what the other does.

If they have three hours to climb a saturday, they can choose three hours of commitment and have fun at their level. So, they don"t have to be good, but just enjoy three hours of climbing.

In general, every body is able to climb 5.7 and it is possible to have a good chalenge at that level. In a gym, doing many lap at our level most be some thing natural. some one can have fun without be humiliate by a climber :"I climb harder than you because I am better"     
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sneoh

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2014, 07:59:25 PM »

Of course..keep things simple
Skinner said he fell 300+ times over 4 months freeing Salathe....commitment rating ????

If you consider of two climber with regard to onsight and working the route 300+ times, the one who onsight will climb harder than the other.

I agree that commitment rating is not good for competition.... it is for trad climber.
That is a good play on the word, commitment, John.  And Skinner showed impressive perseverance and commitment meeting his goals.
I am not sure what you are saying, LL.

Competition in climbing is not all bad if it is healthy and fun.  Hack, I am in competition with my past self often when I climb.  It keeps me motivated and going.  I am sure at least a few who frequent this board can identify with this :)
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steve weitzler

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #23 on: February 25, 2014, 07:28:58 AM »


Competition in climbing is not all bad if it is healthy and fun.  Hack, I am in competition with my past self often when I climb.  It keeps me motivated and going.  I am sure at least a few who frequent this board can identify with this


I agree Soon. Unfortunatly the "Old Me" always wins that competition!! >:( >:(
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #24 on: February 25, 2014, 07:10:40 PM »


Competition in climbing is not all bad if it is healthy and fun. 

I agree. I will say more emulation for trad climbing and competition for sport climbing...

althought a trad climber can use emulation to climb as hard as a sport one in remote area.
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sneoh

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #25 on: February 25, 2014, 07:30:14 PM »

Lots of emulating in sport too.  It depends on the situation, group dynamics, etc.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #26 on: February 26, 2014, 10:50:16 AM »

Lots of emulating in sport too.  It depends on the situation, group dynamics, etc.

emulation: ambition to equal or excel

competition: strive to gain or win something by defeating or establishing superiority over others who are trying to do the same.

As I climbed a five pitch route, it is impossible that one climber stay on the ground and the other climb the pitch three. For that reason, you are looking for some one who equal or excel your ability and will try to be better.
In you sport climb, you don't need some one who can follow you or lead you to the top. You can work a route and if some one else did it, you can stay for hours in a cliff to beat him. In fact, the most competitive climber just need some one to hold the rope as he climb.

As a matter of fact, in sport, group are easier to make. Many people is at the bottom looking at you ready to laught if you mist it or applaud if you are better. In trad, the group is two persons. You just have to beat your partner if you compete. or you can work as a team where each people teach at the other some think. Even modesty by a newbye.

In trad, people will seat down in front of cathedral looking at climber and discussing technique as they take a beer. In sport they don't even think to look at a climber in refuse, except to notice there mistake.

It is little difference and there is more, but I think that they exist

Even in a forum, you read competitive note.

 
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sneoh

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #27 on: February 26, 2014, 08:40:41 PM »

In trad, the group is two persons. You just have to beat your partner if you compete. or you can work as a team where each people teach at the other some think.
Again, you are making assumptions that do not apply to everyone and in every situation.  The above happens quite a bit in sport too.  For me, almost every road trip to a sport area goes that way.  Surprise?  You should not be.  Generalization can be hazardous.
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"You have to decide to do a flag, where you can broke your vertebrae or a barn door depending of your pro" - the poster formerly known as Champ

DLottmann

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #28 on: February 26, 2014, 10:38:21 PM »

Surprise?  You should not be.  Generalization can be hazardous.

icwhatudidthar  ;D
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #29 on: February 27, 2014, 11:34:27 AM »

Again, you are making assumptions that do not apply to everyone and in every situation.  The above happens quite a bit in sport too.  For me, almost every road trip to a sport area goes that way.  Surprise?  You should not be.  Generalization can be hazardous.

In crag talk in the early 80, a climber describe the move on recompense. Instead of describing a left layback, he describe the position to climb the diedral with the feet on the left wall. The climber follow is beta, try the move with the feet on the left...and bail. the second climber understand the movement of his body. Instead of trying to place the feet on the left wall, he follow the advice of the old climber and use is understanding of the left layback for a right layback, which is the same. You can ear an instruction and follow it....or you can understand a technique and use it many time after. The old climber teach him to have a deep understanding of technique, not a superficial one.

In what I said, I wrote: "althought a trad climber can use emulation to climb as hard as a sport one in remote area" .

So, it is a proof that I also consider that sport do emulation or, even worse, that trad make competition. And I know trad climber who compete in New-Hampshire.
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