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Author Topic: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...  (Read 493 times)

klamhattenamin

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Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« on: February 17, 2014, 07:33:38 PM »

I was wondering if anyone on here knows anything about the old trad lines that exist on a small crag located in the middle of Round Pond at Pawtuckaway State Park. The only way to get to them is by boat in the spring, summer and fall or by walking on the ice in the winter. It's a small crag split by a couple of small thin finger cracks, the face has some small edges and flakes to pull down or to stand on... The left side with the vertical crack is slightly overhanging.

There's about 4 lines on this crag. The two thin cracks in the middle slating and left vertical crack both have old pitons about halfway up the lines.
Todd Swain, made mention of the crag in his old guide to Southern NH but gave no route description.

The routes going right to left.
1. The left angling crack set back from the main face
2. The face in between the left angling crack and the thin left angling finger crack.
3. The left angling thin finger crack in the middle of the face
4. The thin vertical crack on the left starting from the block.

Not sure when these were first climbed, just looking to see if anyone knows what the grades they might be?
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Christopher

eyebolter

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Re: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2014, 12:55:37 PM »

Justin Hayes showed me the right side maybe 10 years ago and said that he and Tim Kemple Jr. had been working on it.

Looks really good!

Don't have any other info but I would try Justin or Tim.

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klamhattenamin

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Re: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2014, 09:29:54 PM »

Thanks Eyebolter, I know that Justin Hayes bolted a line or two on the face behind this one, wasn't sure if he pulled on any of these lines or someone before him. The right thin vertical crack starting off of the block is way out of me league but definitely cool looking line.
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Christopher

danf

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Re: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2014, 10:00:10 PM »

Bolts?  At Pawtuckaway?
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xcrag_corex

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Re: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2014, 10:06:36 AM »

^pretty sure that's a big no-no in that park.....
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-Jeremy Ballou

"know how to rock, ain't afraid to roll"

klamhattenamin

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Re: Forgotten routes at Pawtuckaway, Round Pond Island...
« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2014, 10:48:56 AM »

Bolts?  At Pawtuckaway?

Danf, There has been fixed gear at Pawtuckaway since people have been climbing in the park.
Examples:
Climb on the Buttermilk/AMC boulder, in Boulder Natural, you'll find an old 1/4" bolt hole, the Yosemite Boulder has the remains of an old bolt ladder and has 1/4" bolts or button heads at the very top of it.
Over in Round Pond, The Split Boulder/Jelly Rock had an old 1/4" bolt or button head on it, the Hemlock Boulder has a few pins and bolts on top of it, the same with The Whip boulder. On the Lower Slabs if you climb The Flake Route, on reaching the upper slab before the top you'll find the remains of an old 1/4" bolt, if you look carefully. 

Sympathy for the Devil, in Devils Den, has bolts on it very since the route was an aid line. Edges has an old pin in it and I believe The Rusty Hammer has a pin or two in it. Friend of the Devil has two pins in it.
Lower Cliff has a 1/4" bolt on Finger Lichen Good (Base Guide)
The Majority of the routes on the Yellow Dog wall are bolted, the two pins and bolts on the Island Crag and alone pin at the Fire Tower Crag.
Leave the Lobster is a bolted line at the Microwave tower.

So yeah I would say you would find a bolt/pin or two at Pawtuckaway, Todd and Base documented all the pins and bolts in their guides. The majority of the Old 1/4" bolts and button heads have been pulled or replaced (as is the case in Sympathy for the Devil which now has modern 3/8" bolts on it).

As for bolts that have gone in in the last 30 yrs or so are on crags that already have fixed gear (bolts or pins) or are so remote that it's rare to see someone climbing on them, like the Island Crag.

Sorry for the rant but Pawtuckaway isn't as bolt free as most people think it is.

I'm just looking for a couple of grades not looking to start an argument about bolts, pins and fixed gear being in Pawtuckaway.
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Christopher
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