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Author Topic: ice flow  (Read 1189 times)

lucky luke

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ice flow
« on: February 19, 2014, 01:16:19 PM »

When you look a river in spring, you saw the ice pushing by the current. If the ice stop, it will create a dam... and it will inundate every think above the dam. In climbing, many people used the term clusterfuck when many party are stick between other.

As a debacle happen, or after a water fall, the ice flow can be so strong that it can destroy a bridge. It is also a situation that happen in climbing when a team try to pass other and place them in dangerous situation. Few years ago, a party was climbing half dome and try to pass an other by the right. The guy move a block that felt on his rope. The body was discover at the bottom of the cliff.

I think that when you climb, you most know the normal flow on a climb. For example, on standard route frankeinstein cliff, many party climb it by a warm day. If to be safe, only four party most be on the route at the same time, every one most respect that. Before, we call that measure of time the commitment rating.

As a forum, I thought that experience climber and guide most discuss what is the commitment rating and wrote it as it is in many guide book. As a climber, I wrote a blog to discuss more deeply the situation. You see the news at tv, but you read more detail in journal. So, I hope that people will understand that it is more a positive blog to the site than a competition between two forum.

The blog is: http://tradpartner.blog.com/     
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DLottmann

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2014, 05:01:44 PM »

You finally created a blog!

Where can I subscribe/follow? I could not find that spot and don’t want to miss any of your posts.

Standard Route at Frankenstein is a 2 pitch Grade II if you are looking for commitment rating... yes, you can break it up into 3 pitches if you really want to. Skilled climbers can 5th class it in under two hours. New climbers often take half a day, and get passed by other parties. It’s too popular to move slow on and not get passed by one of 3-4 variations...
« Last Edit: February 19, 2014, 05:03:21 PM by DMan »
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perswig

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2014, 05:27:25 PM »

Ice flow?

THIS is ice flow....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5waSw2mMfY

Yowza.
Dale
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If it's overhanging, I'm probably off-route.

strandman

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #3 on: February 19, 2014, 06:21:11 PM »

I'm  guess I'm not sure why mentioning half Dome is relevant to "ice flow"  Though i certainly have seen a lot of "snow flow" of HD
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #4 on: February 19, 2014, 07:14:28 PM »

Ice flow?
THIS is ice flow....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5waSw2mMfY

very amazing.

I spoke about half dome because some quebec climber that I know was there just the pitch under the guy who died. Thre was alot of party in the climb, moving as a river. If every body stay at his place, there is less danger, just normal danger. But some guy want to bypass other who climb at a "normal" speed. In doing so, one climber died.

 
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #5 on: February 19, 2014, 07:17:44 PM »

Standard Route at Frankenstein is a 2 pitch Grade II if you are looking for commitment rating... yes, you can break it up into 3 pitches if you really want to. Skilled climbers can 5th class it in under two hours. New climbers often take half a day, and get passed by other parties. It’s too popular to move slow on and not get passed by one of 3-4 variations...

Well it is the purpose of my blog. To know if we most just favorise the good fifth climber and make a moral interdiction to other climber, or if we most found a commitment rating for a climb. In standard route, a grade 5 climber can easily do the pillar which is a good grade four. and take more time to go to the summit.

I am for: if your are too fast, slow down or climb an other route, if you are too slow, work out a little bit more and try it later.
« Last Edit: February 19, 2014, 11:30:25 PM by lucky luke »
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kenreville

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #6 on: February 19, 2014, 07:22:30 PM »

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tradmanclimbz

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #7 on: February 19, 2014, 07:46:38 PM »

That video was  super scary. there were people in the houses. i don't know if anyone got killed. Unsetteling for me.
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pappy

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #8 on: February 20, 2014, 10:15:06 AM »

Back in the '60s Huascaron in Peru heated up and the ice cap cut loose. Killed 20,000 people in a village 12 miles from the mountain. Presumably most were wearing cotton. That was an ice flow.
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old_school

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2014, 10:43:02 AM »

Back in the '60s Huascaron in Peru heated up and the ice cap cut loose. Killed 20,000 people in a village 12 miles from the mountain. Presumably most were wearing cotton. That was an ice flow.

Polypro would have saved 80% of them!   ;)
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"Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you will be a mile away from them and you will have their shoes."

strandman

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #10 on: February 20, 2014, 04:36:59 PM »

Ice is for pouring whiskey over..hamish Mcinnes...
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pitonpat

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2014, 08:19:38 PM »

Presumably most were wearing cotton.

Ooh, you're wicked!  My grandmother would have called you a "stir-stick".  :-)
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lucky luke

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2014, 09:23:55 PM »

I am for: if your are too fast, slow down or climb an other route, if you are too slow, work out a little bit more and try it later.

If you ever climb in a very nice day at cathedral, you will be able to see the climber moving like an ice flow.  some p[arty going slowqly and doesn;t want to be pass and some other you just keep going without care of other.

As a part of climbing hard, one can be good at yosemite classification and an other at the nccs:In a nutshell, the YDS : “categorizes terrain according to the techniques and physical difficulties encountered when rock climbing.” The NCCS describes the overall nature of a climb in terms of time and technical difficulty taking the following into account: length of climb, number of hard pitches, difficulty of hardest pitch, average difficulty, commitment, route finding problems, and overall ascent time. It is often call the “commitment grade.”  (mfoth, but not sure).

As some one work a route for ears: the commitment rating most be several months...
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kenreville

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #13 on: February 20, 2014, 09:56:38 PM »

HEY!!! Yeah You- Lucky Luke

"As some one work a route for ears: the commitment rating most be several months..."

Please elaborate on this sentence. WTF does it mean?

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xcrag_corex

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Re: ice flow
« Reply #14 on: February 20, 2014, 10:18:03 PM »

..... I think he may be trying to convert us to metric?!?!?! ???
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-Jeremy Ballou

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